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Routes in Merriam Peak

Direct North Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dr. Bear Love Project T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C1
Flying Buttress, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Foundation Crack, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gargoyle T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Triple Cracks Project T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: TBD
Page Views: 1,413 total, 22/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Jul 11, 2012
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The point of this route addition is to give some people a bit more psyche and information. All climbing was done on TR so I know it doesn't "count" for anything.


I lowered in 60+ meters from the summit ridge and was able to climb two of the three cracks. The only problem is that the sections, while sightly overlapping, would seem very hard to connect.

Link 1. From a ledge midway up the right crack, below an obvious black knob, climb the splitter crack until the angle steeps 5.10+. As the crack joggs to the right the difficulty increases quickly to the 5.11/11+ range. Once over the steep section make your way left to the middle crack.

Link 2. From the middle of steep section climb the middle crack with initial difficulties in the 5.11 range. Shortly the crack goes back to vertical and you will enjoy splitter 5.10 jamming. Occasional face holds appear to ease the sustained nature of this section. Eventually the crack runs out and you must work up various blocks and cracks to the summit ridge.



Our thought was to approach via a crack on the right side of the lower headwall. Next you would need to aid across the roofs, possibly on bolts to access the bottom section of the triple cracks.

The right crack is the best at the bottom and then the middle crack becomes climbable. Both cracks are in the 5.11 or above range in the steep section of the headwall due to their flaring nature.

Location

The Triple Cracks are on the right side of the west face of Merriam. They are very obvious from the ground and start above a series of roofs.

Protection

Double rack from fingers to hands (#2 camalot).
Optional extra hand sized pieces.
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
 
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
 
Jesse,

I know Dave Alfrey tried one of them. Not sure which of the triple cracks. He said it was pretty exciting and I don't think he did the whole thing free.

Probably worth bringing a bolt kit to help with some of the entry moves to get established.

Casey and I never went back for bear love. Feel free to clean, send, whatever. Just report back!! Jun 21, 2016
Jesse Bernier
Northern Tahoe
Jesse Bernier   Northern Tahoe
anyone have any new beta on these two "projects" listed on here. planning a trip this way and trying to get educated on this nice piece of stone Jun 18, 2016