Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Merriam Peak
|
Direct North Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Dr. Bear Love T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
Flying Buttress, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Foundation Crack, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Gargoyle T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Heart of Darkness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Triple Cracks Project T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1 |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 37.3088, -118.7651 |
| FA: | FA: Casey Zak and Luke Stefurak FFA: Japhy Dhungana and Zach Lovell 7/2025 |
| Page Views: | 2,511 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Stefurak on Jul 9, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
This route climbs a singular crack system on the left side of the headwall on the west face of Merriam peak.
Pitch 1: 60m 5.8
Same as for Croft-Rands’ Gargoyle, up moderate corner and trending to the right, belaying at the base of a #4 crack.
Pitch 2: 50m 5.10
Follow the Gargoyle’s second pitch through the fist crack, but continue straight up to the large ledge system instead of trending left for Gargoyle. Belay in the large left facing corner.
Pitch 3: 32m 5.13a
Climb a moderate hand crack to a thin seam. After resting on a small triangular ledge, launch into the steepening fingers to tips seam using a mix of flared finger jams, thin feet, and face holds. Once getting into a stemming rest, the climbing eases to the anchor ledge (accepts cams of all sizes). Beta hint: climb the crux like a bear hug- Dr. Bear Love would approve. .1/.2 and .2/.3 offsets are very helpful.
Pitch 4: 30m 5.12c
Climb a finger crack at the back of a flare using a mix of straight in jams and lie backing, the difficulties end as the crack widens to hands, going to a right-slanting ledge that accepts #1 and #2 cams. Alternatively, climb 15 meters higher through perfect hands to a large belay ledge, which also takes hand-sized gear.
Pitch 5: 30m 5.11
Climb a friendly hand crack (if stopping at the slanting ledge) to a large ledge, climb a deceptively challenging flared crack to a small ledge that accepts finger-sized gear.
Pitch 6: 25m 5.10
Climb railroad track cracks through a right facing corner to a large ledge at the ridge.
Pitch 7: 150m low to mid 5th class
Follow the ridge, generally on its left side, to second class terrain. Same finish as all other north buttress routes.
The route is named in honor of Dr. Clinton Hart Merriam and The Oatmeal
Location
The route lies on left side the right headwall of Merriam Peak. It is the right of two twin cracks.
We approached via the gulley and one pitch of less than stellar climbing. A better option will be to take the Croft-Rands start and then break right to access the ledges below the right headwall.
1 Comment