Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
The Foundation Crack
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Merriam Peak
|
|
Direct North Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Dr. Bear Love Project T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C1 |
|
|
Flying Buttress, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Foundation Crack, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Gargoyle T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Heart of Darkness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Triple Cracks Project T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1 |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | Josh Janes - June 2016 |
| Page Views: | 2,020 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Jun 29, 2016 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
This is a single pitch, rap-in-and-climb-out affair that is conveniently located right along the descent from any of the Merriam summit routes. Reminiscent of the "Speed of Life" in quality and difficulty, it is an excellent, long pitch of thin hands and occasional ring locks in an exposed location. The only thing keeping me from calling it a classic is that it has a fair bit of typical alpine granite potato chip crunchies - this will improve with every ascent though so if you're looking for a fun way to round out your day after climbing one of the other routes on Merriam, check it out.
Location, Approach, and Beta
While climbing any other route on Merriam, look across to the adjacent, east-facing wall formed by the jagged ridge that runs from Merriam's summit to the Royce-Merriam saddle. High on this wall you'll see an obvious, beautiful splitter. There is a large patch of orange rock just right of the top-out which makes it easy to identify.
While descending, hug the ridge as much as possible; I built a massive cairn on the ridge at the top of the route but regardless it should be easy to find. From this cairn you should be able to see a single bolt on a ramp just below the ridge that marks the top of the route. Allow approximately 10-15 minutes to reach this spot from the summit.
Build an anchor using the bolt and other gear being careful not to touch the huge death block perched on the ridge near the bolt (I tried to trundle it but couldn't get it to budge). From your anchor rappel straight down with two ropes (see note below if you only have one rope) to a perfect belay ledge at the start of the pitch. There is another single bolt anchor here which you can easily back up with a finger-sized cam or large stopper. Pull your ropes with confidence knowing that you can A0 the entire pitch if you get into trouble!
From the belay, immediately swing left around the arete and lieback up the crack to a stance. Take a deep breath, pull back right and jam your way to glory! There are several cruxy sections but there are also many rests: When in doubt, you must resist the urge to say take and instead brush off the bottoms of your shoes on your pant legs and keep going. Belay just below the ridge at your initial rap anchor which has been patiently waiting for you.
Note: If you only have one rope, from the top you can do a short 40' rap to a small foot ledge just right of the crack and build a second anchor. You'll know you're in the right spot if you rapped past all the blocky, easy rock at the top of the pitch and below you the climbing is obviously much steeper, cleaner, and more challenging. From this point a second rappel will get you to the belay ledge at the start of the pitch.
While descending, hug the ridge as much as possible; I built a massive cairn on the ridge at the top of the route but regardless it should be easy to find. From this cairn you should be able to see a single bolt on a ramp just below the ridge that marks the top of the route. Allow approximately 10-15 minutes to reach this spot from the summit.
Build an anchor using the bolt and other gear being careful not to touch the huge death block perched on the ridge near the bolt (I tried to trundle it but couldn't get it to budge). From your anchor rappel straight down with two ropes (see note below if you only have one rope) to a perfect belay ledge at the start of the pitch. There is another single bolt anchor here which you can easily back up with a finger-sized cam or large stopper. Pull your ropes with confidence knowing that you can A0 the entire pitch if you get into trouble!
From the belay, immediately swing left around the arete and lieback up the crack to a stance. Take a deep breath, pull back right and jam your way to glory! There are several cruxy sections but there are also many rests: When in doubt, you must resist the urge to say take and instead brush off the bottoms of your shoes on your pant legs and keep going. Belay just below the ridge at your initial rap anchor which has been patiently waiting for you.
Note: If you only have one rope, from the top you can do a short 40' rap to a small foot ledge just right of the crack and build a second anchor. You'll know you're in the right spot if you rapped past all the blocky, easy rock at the top of the pitch and below you the climbing is obviously much steeper, cleaner, and more challenging. From this point a second rappel will get you to the belay ledge at the start of the pitch.
2 Comments