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Areas in Santa Ana Mountains

El Cariso 2 / 6 / 5 / 52 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 59
Jurassic Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
KinderCare Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Main Divide 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Ortega Falls 8 / 1 / 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Ortega Falls Top Rope 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
San Juan Canyon 3 / 3 / 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Tenaja Falls 1 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Tenaja Falls Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Trabuco Creek 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Upper Candy Store Boulders 2 / 0 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Upper San Juan Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10

Description

The Santa Ana Mountains are the eastern boundary of the Los Angeles basin. They are peaked by the "Saddleback" formation of Santiago and Modjeska Peaks, both over 4,000 feet in elevation. The crest of the range forms part of the border between Orange and Riverside Counties. Most of the public land here is part of the Cleveland National Forest.

It has range has some good bouldering areas, including the two best known, El Cariso and Ortega Falls. A few crags here also have small single pitch roped routes, but overall rock here is short.

Getting There

Drive to Orange County

132 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Santa Ana Mountains

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 10
Elysia
Boulder
V2-3 5+
 10
Grumpy Man (aka old man)
Boulder
V2-3 5+
 4
Goomba
Boulder
V3+ 6A+
 7
El Chorizo
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 4
Pipe Around
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 49
Dihedral
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 7
unknown slab
Sport, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Route 1
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 41
Fingers
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Route 2
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 8
Slim Jim
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Unknown
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 21
Polished
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 11
Splitter
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Route 3
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Elysia El Cariso > Elysia
 10
V1 5 Boulder
Grumpy Man (aka old man) El Cariso > Grumpy Man
 10
V2-3 5+ Boulder
Goomba El Cariso > El Cariso - Misc Prob…
 4
V2-3 5+ Boulder
El Chorizo El Cariso > El Cariso - Misc Prob…
 7
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
Pipe Around El Cariso > El Cariso - Misc Prob…
 4
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Dihedral Ortega Falls
 49
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
unknown slab El Cariso > El Cariso - Misc Prob…
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Sport, TR
Route 1 San Juan Canyon
 10
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Fingers Ortega Falls
 41
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Route 2 San Juan Canyon
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Slim Jim El Cariso > El Cariso - Misc Prob…
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
Unknown Ortega Falls
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Polished Ortega Falls
 21
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Splitter Ortega Falls
 11
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Route 3 San Juan Canyon
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Santa Ana Mountains »

Weather Averages

High
 
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Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Not to be a jerk but SoCal is my home and Clevland Ntl Forest or any mountains surrounding OC are not prime in June as this graph above indicates. In fact, it may be close to the poorest time to climb. Try full on winter time. Jun 21, 2015

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