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Areas in Santa Ana Mountains

El Cariso 2 / 6 / 5 / 52 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 59
Jurassic Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
KinderCare Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Main Divide 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Ortega Falls 8 / 1 / 9 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
San Juan Canyon 3 / 3 / 4 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Tenaja Falls 1 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Tenaja Falls Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Trabuco Creek 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Upper Candy Store Boulders 2 / 0 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Upper San Juan Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Elevation: 3,249 ft
GPS: 33.63, -117.491 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 89,354 total · 634/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Feb 26, 2007
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

The Santa Ana Mountains are the eastern boundary of the Los Angeles basin. They are peaked by the "Saddleback" formation of Santiago and Modjeska Peaks, both over 4,000 feet in elevation. The crest of the range forms part of the border between Orange and Riverside Counties. Most of the public land here is part of the Cleveland National Forest.

It has range has some good bouldering areas, including the two best known, El Cariso and Ortega Falls. A few crags here also have small single pitch roped routes, but overall rock here is short.

Getting There

Drive to Orange County

132 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Santa Ana Mountains

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 10
Elysia
Boulder
V2-3 5+
 10
Grumpy Man (aka old man)
Boulder
V2-3 5+
 4
Goomba
Boulder
V3+ 6A+
 7
El Chorizo
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 4
Pipe Around
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 50
Dihedral
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 7
unknown slab
Sport, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Route 1
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
Fingers
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 23
Horn
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 8
Slim Jim
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Unknown
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 21
Polished
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 11
Splitter
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Route 3
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Elysia El Cariso > First Hill > Elysia
 10
V1 5 Boulder
Grumpy Man (aka old man) El Cariso > Grumpy Man
 10
V2-3 5+ Boulder
Goomba El Cariso > El Cariso - Misc Prob…
 4
V2-3 5+ Boulder
El Chorizo El Cariso > El Cariso - Misc Prob…
 7
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
Pipe Around El Cariso > El Cariso - Misc Prob…
 4
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Dihedral Ortega Falls > Toprope Wall
 50
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
unknown slab El Cariso > El Cariso - Misc Prob…
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Sport, TR
Route 1 San Juan Canyon
 11
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Fingers Ortega Falls > Toprope Wall
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Horn Ortega Falls > Toprope Wall
 23
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Slim Jim El Cariso > El Cariso - Misc Prob…
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
Unknown San Juan Canyon
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Polished Ortega Falls > Toprope Wall
 21
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Splitter Ortega Falls > Toprope Wall
 11
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Route 3 San Juan Canyon
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Santa Ana Mountains »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Not to be a jerk but SoCal is my home and Clevland Ntl Forest or any mountains surrounding OC are not prime in June as this graph above indicates. In fact, it may be close to the poorest time to climb. Try full on winter time. Jun 21, 2015

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