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Routes in Ortega Falls

Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Falls, Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fingers T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Foot Loose V2 5+ PG13
Horn T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Polished T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red-tailed S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Splitter T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Steak n' Potatoes TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thing One T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thing Two T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
Page Views: 3,703 total · 28/month
Shared By: Nate "Mustang" Johnson on Aug 6, 2007
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This is the finger crack just to the right of the dihedral.


This is the obvious finger crack to the immediate right of the gully.


It can be led but most people just top rope.


The picture shown is actually after/higher than the crux, where the route goes from 5.6 to about 5.7. The crux is about halfway up the route (see my comments on the 5.7) and is a good 5.9 finger crack ... great for laybacking. You WILL get pumped, as it's really slick rock! Oct 15, 2009
Tucson, AZ
JMo   Tucson, AZ
Don't know why more people don't lead this- great gear. Fun climb. 5.6 at Josh, if that Nov 27, 2011
Fun lead. Lots of gear placements. Eats up small cams, a few larger placements after the runout section between the 5.9 finger crack and the 5.7 upper section. Upper crack takes med to small cams. Three bolt anchor at the top. Jun 21, 2012
Protection for Fingers is the same as Dihedral. Three anchors placed on the topside of the top boulder. You'll need something to extend about 2-3ft. to use these anchors. You can easily reach them via a hike around the back right side of the waterfall. Nov 25, 2013

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