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Fingers

5.9, Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 73 votes
FA: N/A
California > Los Angeles Basin > Santa Ana Mount… > Ortega Falls > Toprope Wall

Description

This is the finger crack just to the right of the dihedral.

Location

This is the obvious finger crack to the immediate right of the gully.

Protection

It can be led but most people just top rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Why are there bolts next to this crack? I'm chopping these! This is wrong. Whoever did this is a kook! Please never climb here again. Your not wanted.
[Hide Photo] Why are there bolts next to this crack? I'm chopping these! This is wrong. Whoever did this is a kook! Please never climb here again. Your not wanted.
I'm chopping these ASAP! You do not bolt next to cracks ya dork! Quit climbing please.
[Hide Photo] I'm chopping these ASAP! You do not bolt next to cracks ya dork! Quit climbing please.
5.7 is on the left, 5.9 is on the right
[Hide Photo] 5.7 is on the left, 5.9 is on the right
Zuzu getting ready to climb fingers in November 2016.  Mark and Elizabeth Ostgaard
[Hide Photo] Zuzu getting ready to climb fingers in November 2016. Mark and Elizabeth Ostgaard
Good jams and good gear. Alec leading fingers while jack belays.
[Hide Photo] Good jams and good gear. Alec leading fingers while jack belays.
Fun trad lead! The crack takes plenty of pro. bring small cams for the finger crack and up to 3" for the 5.7 finish. Bolted anchor on the top.
[Hide Photo] Fun trad lead! The crack takes plenty of pro. bring small cams for the finger crack and up to 3" for the 5.7 finish. Bolted anchor on the top.
Ashley headed up Fingers
[Hide Photo] Ashley headed up Fingers
Sequencing the stone.
[Hide Photo] Sequencing the stone.
Booty! If you can dig this one out I'll buy you a beer. Someone broke one of the cables and turned the thing around somehow. Happy hunting!
[Hide Photo] Booty! If you can dig this one out I'll buy you a beer. Someone broke one of the cables and turned the thing around somehow. Happy hunting!
Fingers
[Hide Photo] Fingers
Fingers
[Hide Photo] Fingers

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The picture shown is actually after/higher than the crux, where the route goes from 5.6 to about 5.7. The crux is about halfway up the route (see my comments on the 5.7) and is a good 5.9 finger crack ... great for laybacking. You WILL get pumped, as it's really slick rock! Oct 15, 2009
j mo
n az
 
[Hide Comment] Don't know why more people don't lead this- great gear. Fun climb. 5.6 at Josh, if that Nov 27, 2011
[Hide Comment] Fun lead. Lots of gear placements. Eats up small cams, a few larger placements after the runout section between the 5.9 finger crack and the 5.7 upper section. Upper crack takes med to small cams. Three bolt anchor at the top. Jun 21, 2012
sc00ter5
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Protection for Fingers is the same as Dihedral. Three anchors placed on the topside of the top boulder. You'll need something to extend about 2-3ft. to use these anchors. You can easily reach them via a hike around the back right side of the waterfall. Nov 25, 2013
Christopher Dean
Orange County, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Thx to whoever set the 4 excellent bolts/hangers up top. They are all still in great condition & made life easy for beginners like us. Fun little crack & not too intimidating Oct 30, 2018
Gumby King
The Gym
 
[Hide Comment] Anchor Bolt Update: Glue-in bolts are in place as of this post (5/8/2022). May 8, 2022