Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: N/A
Page Views: 1,934 total · 18/month
Shared By: Nate "Mustang" Johnson on Feb 8, 2010
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

This is the next route to the right of "fingers". The start is the crux, a very polished, very shallow, flaring crack. Past the first ten feet the climbing eases to 5.8 with good protection.

Protection

Pro to 2"

Photos

John Ericson
A Toyota Prius Luxury Mobil…
John Ericson   A Toyota Prius Luxury Mobil…
If you are in the area, the route is worth doing for the start alone. The rest of the route is not particularly memorable. After the first six feet the route is easy and protects well. A sit start is possible if you are into that kind of thing. Dec 31, 2011
Witty1
Riverside, Ca
  5.10c
Witty1   Riverside, Ca
  5.10c
There is a sidepull you can use if you are doing a stand start. It makes using your feet slightly easier than just staying in the crack. Mar 2, 2012
Jeff Botimer  
 
If you want an unusual start try running and jumping off the wall and sticking the under-cling. Definitely not a standard climbing move but a ton of fun if you can get it! Jun 9, 2013
My friend worked at the start for a long time, didn't get it. I tried and failed too. How do you approach it? We couldn't get toes to stick in the crack, and the hand jams didn't really jam either. He was able to get in a stemming stance against a little dihedral to the right, but couldn't get past that point. Dec 2, 2017