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Routes in Ortega Falls

Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Falls, Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fingers T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horn T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Polished T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red-tailed S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Splitter T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Steak n' Potatoes TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thing One T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thing Two T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
Page Views: 1,798 total · 18/month
Shared By: Nate "Mustang" Johnson on Feb 8, 2010
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This is the next route to the right of "fingers". The start is the crux, a very polished, very shallow, flaring crack. Past the first ten feet the climbing eases to 5.8 with good protection.


Pro to 2"


John Ericson   USA
If you are in the area, the route is worth doing for the start alone. The rest of the route is not particularly memorable. After the first six feet the route is easy and protects well. A sit start is possible if you are into that kind of thing. Dec 31, 2011
Riverside, Ca
Witty1   Riverside, Ca
There is a sidepull you can use if you are doing a stand start. It makes using your feet slightly easier than just staying in the crack. Mar 2, 2012
Jeff Botimer  
If you want an unusual start try running and jumping off the wall and sticking the under-cling. Definitely not a standard climbing move but a ton of fun if you can get it! Jun 9, 2013
My friend worked at the start for a long time, didn't get it. I tried and failed too. How do you approach it? We couldn't get toes to stick in the crack, and the hand jams didn't really jam either. He was able to get in a stemming stance against a little dihedral to the right, but couldn't get past that point. Dec 2, 2017

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