Elevation: 3,048 ft
GPS: 33.647, -117.442 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 59,863 total · 618/month
Shared By: Ronnie St. Jean on Aug 23, 2012
Admins: jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: Access Sensitive Details

Description

This is the most secluded climbing i have come across in Orange County. I have heard it is written about in an old school climbing guide and it appears in the "Southern California Bouldering Guide" written by Craig Fry. El Cariso seems to be almost forgotten about. When my friend Jeff Mumaugh and I first started climbing there it was completely covered in chaparral growth. Slowly but surely the climbs started to appear and now it is my favorite bouldering spot in the O.C. The Climbing sits on top of three main hills. Numerous Granite boulders make for seemingly endless bouldering. The first two hills have a lot of previous burn so access is easy. The third hill has the largest boulders but a lot of bushes stand in the way of some classic climbs. There are a few really fun sport climbs which I'm guessing Craig Fry put up. Also There is the Aid Boulder which is covered with old pitons and a bolt ladder for aid climbing. The surrounding hills to the west have even more bouldering and potential for sport, top rope, and maybe trad but, be quiet as you go that way because you will be going right next to private property. NOTE: you cannot enter through the neighborhood. The first hill on that side is worth it but it's not really worth going to the far hill yetÂ…
Lets keep this place clean and accessible; please be respectful, pick up trash, follow all general climbing rules, and Don't play loud music! this area echoes and we don't want to piss anyone off! lets all do our part - thank you

Getting There

If driving from O.C. you pass the Ortega waterfall and make your first left on forest route 3S04. drive past mystic oaks and park at the top of the hill. The parking spot is right before your next left turn that goes to the fire station (vehicles must display forest pass). the approach is a 30 min walk from car to the aid boulder. The first bouldering area is less than a 5 min. walk toward the fire station and head up the dirt road hill that goes to some electrical boxes. pass them and stay on the trail to the boulders on the left.

73 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at El Cariso

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0-1 4+
 3
Burn Victim
Boulder
V1- 5-
 5
Mohawk Kid
Boulder
V1 5
 10
Elysia
Boulder
V1+ 5
 4
Pizza Face
Boulder
V2 5+
 4
Her Scar
Boulder
V2 5+
 4
Pipe Around
Boulder
V2-3 5+
 11
Grumpy Man (aka old man)
Boulder
V2-3 5+
 3
The Shocker
Boulder
V2-3 5+
 6
Goomba
Boulder
V3 6A
 4
The Brain
Boulder
V4 6B
 8
El Chorizo
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 7
Oh Sheila
Sport, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 8
Slim Jim
Sport, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 7
slabby face
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Burn Victim First Hill > Burn Victim
 3
V0-1 4+ Boulder
Mohawk Kid Spine Boulder
 5
V1- 5- Boulder
Elysia First Hill > Elysia
 10
V1 5 Boulder
Pizza Face Aid Hill > Pizza Face
 4
V1+ 5 Boulder
Her Scar First Hill > Elysia
 4
V2 5+ Boulder
Pipe Around Spine Boulder
 4
V2 5+ Boulder
Grumpy Man (aka old man) Grumpy Man
 11
V2-3 5+ Boulder
The Shocker First Hill > Shocker
 3
V2-3 5+ Boulder
Goomba Goomba
 6
V2-3 5+ Boulder
The Brain Grumpy Man
 4
V3 6A Boulder
El Chorizo Aid Hill > El Chorizo
 8
V4 6B Boulder
Oh Sheila Aid Hill > 5.7 Slab
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Sport, TR
Slim Jim El Cariso - Misc Prob…
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
slabby face El Cariso - Misc Prob…
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
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