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Areas in The Palace

Back on Black Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Bat Cave 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Big Beaver Tail 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Chamber, The 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Cirque de Poudre 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Citadel, The 2 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Lion's Den (aka Sunday Buttress), The 8 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Mineshaft Wall 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Palace Pages, The 1 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Peeps Wall 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Poudre Face, The 1 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Red Wall 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Scepter, The 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Vatoville 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Wall With a View 1 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Elevation: 5,958 ft
GPS: 40.692, -105.379 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 102,862 total, 757/month
Shared By: Dylan Kuhn on Oct 16, 2006 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Getting weather forecast...

Description

A grotto of featured granite, some steep and overhanging, with mostly sport and a few mixed routes. There are walls facing all directions, so there will usually be both sun or shade available. Rock quality varies - having a helmet on for the occasional falling rock is not a bad idea.

Getting There

It's about 15 miles up the canyon from Ted's Place (where CO Highway 14 turns off of CO 287), just past Mishawaka and the tunnel.

Parking


After the tunnel, park in the second pullout on the right (the first is immediately after the tunnel). It's important that the parking area can still be used as a slow-vehicle turnout. This pretty much requires parallel parking around the edge, even though diagonal parking might accomodate more vehicles. If there isn't room, please park in the first pullout next to the tunnel. A highway accident due to an overfilled pullout would not be good for the Palace.

River Crossing


The river crossing may be dangerous or impossible in high water - don't underestimate it. In low water, a series of rocks that heads downriver to an island, then across, can be navigated carefully.

Per JFM: since the floods of 2013, the river has shifted slightly in the area used to cross over to The Palace. The island described previously has merged with the north (far) shore. There is also a deeper, swifter channel (up to knee-deep even during low water!) about 3/4 across the river. Angling toward the confluence of the creek and the river proper, aim just left of the mouth of the creek for the shallowest possible route. Roll up those pants!

105 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Palace

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Orange You Glad
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
B.A.H.
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Churchill Rejects
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cheerleaders Gone Hippie
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rapunzel, Rapunzel
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The Scepter
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Let Down Your Hair
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jestor
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monstrosity
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Check Your Head
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dear Slabby
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Road to Redemption
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sporting Green
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Red Hot Space Suit
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Small Fry
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Orange You Glad Poudre Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
B.A.H. Poudre Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Churchill Rejects Chamber 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Cheerleaders Gone Hippie Poudre Face 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Rapunzel, Rapunzel Citadel 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Scepter Scepter 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Let Down Your Hair Citadel 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Jestor Chamber 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Monstrosity Mineshaft Wall 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Check Your Head Poudre Face 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Dear Slabby Palace Pages 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Road to Redemption Chamber 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Sporting Green Palace Pages 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Red Hot Space Suit Red Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Small Fry Chamber 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Palace »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Crossed into The Palace on 7/11/17, very deep and fast. Was able to get across and got wet above my rump. Was not able to go back across, had to catch a ride on a raft, and dropped us off on the other side further downstream. Recommend fixing a line to get back across, but keep it high so the rafters don't get clothes lined. Jul 13, 2017
AJ Cohen
Fort Collins, CO
AJ Cohen   Fort Collins, CO
RIVER FLOW REPORTS:

poudrerockreport.com/stream…

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4/2/17: Back from the Palace today
CACHE LA POUDRE AT CANYON MOUTH NEAR FORT COLLINS = river height 2.99 ft at ~49 cfs.

The deepest parts crossing the river were just below the knee (I'm 5'8''), but that was just for the last 15-20 feet or so.

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4/8/17: Just went again yesterday, flow was at 47.1 cfs, depth at 2.82 ft, easily passable, just below knee height at the deepest section.

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4/15/17: Went again yesterday and today (camped overnight). River depth is at 3.14ft, and 117cfs now. Crossing is now becoming much more difficult. Watch a woman get swept in (she was fine), and a few dogs who almost didn't make it. Balls deep at one part.

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8/23/17: My wife climbed here yesterday, first time since the spring, the river is back down to 131cfs and 3.19ft and is now strong, but passable again for the season. The flow should only decrease from here until the spring. Ill finish here with my intermittent river updates since we've covered both seasons now and it gives a general idea of timing for safe river wading (although may vary year to year). Apr 1, 2017
Can you camp up in The Palace? Or can not leave my car in the slow vehicle turnoff overnight? Aug 27, 2016
shane hickman
steamboat springs, CO
shane hickman   steamboat springs, CO
Lost my hat here :( It's a full brimmed, khaki mountain gear hat. Lmk if ya find it. Apr 10, 2016
Ely Finucane
Lakewood, Colorado
Ely Finucane   Lakewood, Colorado
Looking to head to the Poudre this weekend...could anyone give a condition report on the creek crossing to The Palace? Please and thank you. Jun 19, 2014
For personal reference - 45 min. drive from my house to The Palace parking and about the same from CSU. Sep 14, 2011
Brian S  
The best bet for crossing in the summer is a boat. Jul 28, 2010
Anyone have any info. on the river crossing for The Palace? ...or where there might be good alternate options for crossing up or downstream to access these crags? July 15th. Jul 15, 2010
Dusty
Fort Collins
Dusty   Fort Collins
Spencer, Obituary is great, one of the best at the Palace. It has cool movement: it starts with finger locks and liebacks and moves into big moves on good holds. There is a definite crux but it does stay with you beyond the crux. I would recommend it. There are also several worthy .12/.13 climbs at upper echelon if you haven't scoped that out. Jan 29, 2010
beavs
Ft. Collins, CO
beavs   Ft. Collins, CO
I honestly can't remember much about it (it's been years now and I have a bad memory!). There aren't a lot of routes that hard around here to choose from, so I would say it's worth working. It has a definite crux fingerlockish move, bring tape. Good luck! Jan 25, 2010
Spencer Anderson
Fort Collins, CO
Spencer Anderson   Fort Collins, CO
Hey Dusty and Beavs, how fun is Obituary? I need a new project closer to home. Jan 22, 2010
Dusty
Fort Collins
Dusty   Fort Collins
Bloodied up the left index finger on the first attempt, so I taped it on subsequent attempts. Jan 22, 2010
beavs
Ft. Collins, CO
beavs   Ft. Collins, CO
Anytime. By the way, did you come away with a bloody finger? Jan 15, 2010
Dusty
Fort Collins
Dusty   Fort Collins
Great. Thanks, Beavs. Jan 11, 2010
beavs
Ft. Collins, CO
beavs   Ft. Collins, CO
The route is called Obituary, 13a (FA-Derek Peavey). Dec 18, 2009
Spencer Anderson
Fort Collins, CO
Spencer Anderson   Fort Collins, CO
Dusty, in the last guide book it was still listed as a project, 13? Dec 3, 2009
Dusty
Fort Collins
Dusty   Fort Collins
Does anyone know anything about the climb immediately to the left Sporting Green? I climbed this the other day and was curious about the name, grade, FA, etc. Oct 20, 2009
Sam Miller
Boulder, CO
Sam Miller   Boulder, CO
I heard of a 13a somewhere. Beta anyone? Is it worth working? May 16, 2008
desbien
seattle,wa
desbien   seattle,wa
Anyone know if the river is crossable right now? May 6, 2008
ABaxter
Estes Park, CO
ABaxter   Estes Park, CO
Check out Sam Shannon's Palace Rock Guide, intermittently available at Jax and REI. Dec 26, 2007

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