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Routes in The Palace Pages

Battle Axe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blood Legacy T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dear Slabby S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
For the Kids S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gossip Column S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Obituary S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ogre, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sign the Papers S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sporting Green S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunday Times (aka Sunday Paper) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,945 total, 45/month
Shared By: Dan Leonhard on Feb 6, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route, and its neighbors to the climber's left, are rather steep. The characteristics of rock differs from other areas in the Palace, as it is smoother and featured primarily by crack systems.

The route starts just left of Gossip Column, following the arete for 10 feet or so before moving out left. Follow the crack systems up from there.

Location

Follow the Cedar Creek trail past the mine shaft. The route is in the narrow gully to the right. Dear Slabby is the first route, closest to the arete.

Protection

10 bolts.

Photos

Joe Prescott
Fort Collins
Joe Prescott   Fort Collins
Great and lots of jam rests. Seemed contrived to not use the left gully a bit for the first 2 bolts, then straight up from there. Didn't try starting at the very bottom on the arete proper and climbing right of the bolts. I'd say very soft for an 11, and very closely bolted. Oct 7, 2017
Nick Barczak
5.11a
Nick Barczak  
5.11a
Very fun route! Feels soft for 5.11b. Jan 22, 2013
BrendanP Moran
Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.11b
BrendanP Moran   Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.11b
Fantastic route, one of the finest of the grade at Palace. As for rockfall, as long as your leader stays on route it feels pretty clean, and not sure if it's been retrobolted at all, but the falls are very tidy and don't really seem to risk striking the lower flake at any point. But that's me. Jan 29, 2012
Dougald MacDonald  
  5.10d
Definitely fun climbing, but this has to be docked a star because of the ramp on the left, which is both dangerous and tempting to step onto for a rest after the first crux.

My partner and I both thought this climb was no harder than Monstrosity (5.10b!), a combination of that climb being under-graded and this one over-graded. As people have said, this one is much easier if you have good hand and toe jamming skills. Oct 31, 2010
Grant Gerhard
Denver, CO
 
Grant Gerhard   Denver, CO
 
Second Paul's comment on rockfall, also somewhat tentative belay is required on getting to the 4th/5th bolts, as jagged rocks are below and the the left. Oct 22, 2010
Alix  
My favorite route at The Palace. I ended up coming back and doing it with pro and clipping some of the bolts just to be safe and it was sooo much more fun! Definitely recommend this route! Apr 28, 2009
Great route. Oct 20, 2008
A. Wolaver
Golden, CO
A. Wolaver   Golden, CO
Possibly my very favorite single pitch sport route to date. I feel, even knowing how to jam, that early .11 is a good old school rating for the route. The second quarter of the route includes strong crimp moves, strange off finger size jams, and laybackish moves. May 11, 2008
A great route with good varied climbing. It would be much more rewarding, albeit still safe if it were a mixed pro route with say only three bolts plus cams. Nov 6, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
One of the best routes at the Palace that I have done. If you know how to jam, the route will feel easy for 5.11b. Oct 6, 2007
Joe Leonhard
Denver, CO
 
Joe Leonhard   Denver, CO
 
Don't miss the bomber hand jams near the top. They are a welcome change from the taxing face moves on the rest of the route! Sep 5, 2007
Spencer Anderson
Fort Collins, CO
 
Spencer Anderson   Fort Collins, CO
 
The best route that I've done at the Palace thus far. Fun. Mar 30, 2007