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Routes in The Palace Pages

Battle Axe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blood Legacy T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dear Slabby S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
For the Kids S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gossip Column S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Obituary S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ogre, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sign the Papers S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sporting Green S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunday Times (aka Sunday Paper) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Wilhelmi, Shannon
Page Views: 5,473 total, 44/month
Shared By: Spencer Anderson on Sep 29, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

Fun consistent route with just about everything you can ask for: jams, crimps, pinches, laybacks, underclings. Rest where you can on this thing. Crack skills, especially foot jams and layback, help to tame this steep route. The whole route is the crux, but the hardest move comes near the top when moving on laybacks to an interesting pinch/undercling.

Belay spot is fairly lame, the scramble to the base is a little annoying. The fixed chain for the belayer help.

Clipping the first bolt is easy but missing it could spell disaster.

Location

It is just left and uphill from Dear Slabby and across from Sunday Paper.

Protection

7 bolts and chain anchors.

Photos

Chris Kalman
  5.11c
Chris Kalman  
  5.11c
A fun route, one of the better ones in the Palace. Not 5.12a if you know how to crack climb, even moderately well. 5.11c seems about right. May 15, 2017
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
 
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
 
If you climb at the grade or even just below, get on it. Fun climb. Sep 22, 2014
Spencer Anderson
Fort Collins, CO
 
Spencer Anderson   Fort Collins, CO
 
I did this route again today. I have to agree this is one of The Palace classics. I'll also agree on the grade. Guidebook says 12b, but it feels much more like 12a. Because of consensus, I've down graded here. And belaying from the ground is much better.

Warning. The really good tooth rest hold felt loose today. I can't remember if it was that loose when I climbed it last time (two years ago). I’m not sure if it’s chocked in or what but if that hold blows it would certainly bump the grade to 12b. Aug 18, 2009
Buster Jesik
Allenspark, CO
5.12a
Buster Jesik   Allenspark, CO
5.12a
One can belay from the bottom of the gully (by the base of Dear Slabby) with no problems. Apr 28, 2008
ABaxter
Estes Park, CO
  5.12-
ABaxter   Estes Park, CO
  5.12-
Best route besides Dear Slabby I've done at the palace. Death and
Disfiguration would be my third fave. Only 5.12 I've ever done as of today so I'm not the best judge, but felt potentially easy for the grade if you've got some solid crack skills a la Indian Creek. The belay just gives it character but definitely don't blow it before the clip at the first bolt. Apr 24, 2008