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Routes in Back on Black Wall

Back on Black S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boys are Back in Town S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
No Respect S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
White Wedding S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Description

The Palace may best be summed up in 3 words - adventure sport choss. Where else can you train for the Black Canyon's fear-inducing peg bands within the relative safety of modern bolting? Is there another venue in the Northern Front Range that can prepare you better for the hard, sneaky climbing of Eldorado Canyon? Perhaps ... but, perhaps not. Fine tuning ones rock weaseling skills in crystal pimpin', sharp crimpin', and techy footwork (along with a little faith) will see the most wily and dedicated Poudre Canyon aficionado safely up many a seemingly blank line.

However, not every Poudre climber craves the crumbly satisfaction found on many Palace routes. For those whose Poudre fervor requires the most bomber stone and finest movement, there is at least one more place to test your mettle: The Back on Black Wall. Here you will find difficult, clean lines with cerebral climbing. The routes tend on vertical, occasionally bulging beyond and occasionally trending under. The wall is perched in a secluded, south-facing gully high above the Palace Pages back wall. It receives first morning light and can bake due to the convective nature of its southerly aspect and confining space.

WARNING: The belay area for the Back on Black Wall is VERY loose and funnels directly to the base of Blood Legacy and Dear Slabby in the Palace Pages area. Be careful when climbers are staging below for any of these routes. Future efforts will hopefully relieve this situation.

Getting There

Approach as for Red Wall, then head left to the base of H.R. Puf n' Stuff and Natty's 3.2 Light slab where you will find a 2 bolt anchor with chains and fixed static line. Rappel, down climb, or use the fixed hand line to descend into the Back on Black gully.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Back on Black Wall

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IanBarrett
Glenwood Springs, CO
IanBarrett   Glenwood Springs, CO
Newly installed ledge at the base of No Respect. The ledge sometimes referred to as "The Coop" provides ample room to sprawl out into full, sport wanking mode. However, be careful when using the fixed line down to the base of "No Respect". Loose rocks kicked from this maneuver have the potential to bounce all the way to base of "Sign the Papers" or "Battle Axe" where often non-helmet wearing people and dogs congregate.

I have replaced the old fixed line down into The Coop as well. Feb 13, 2013

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