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Routes in The Poudre Face

B.A.H. S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cal Trop (originally entered as 53.5) S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Check Your Head S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Check Your Six S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cheerleaders Gone Hippie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Creepy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Crossbow S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flail S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Loyalist S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange You Glad S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Palace Guard T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
River Rats S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocks for Jocks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Turtle Head S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Sam Shannon, 2005
Page Views: 3,507 total, 37/month
Shared By: Wes B. on Mar 4, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Description

Follow well-spaced bolts up a groove covered in orange lichen. Pass 6 bolts to the base of a separate detached block (see photo). From the base of the detached block, clip three more bolts over vertical or slightly overhanging ground on large holds. The rock is suspect for the entire route! Not recommended for a novice 5.7 leader.

Location

This is the last bolted line (as you go uphill) on the Poudre Face. The orange lichen groove makes it hard to miss this one.

Protection

9 quickdraws and something for the two bolt anchor.

Photos

John Korfmacher
Fort Collins, CO
  5.7
John Korfmacher   Fort Collins, CO
  5.7
Enjoyable route. The rock might have been suspect (or "chossy" as it is described in the guidebook) in the past, but it is pretty clean now. There are some spots where it looks like something might pull off, but it felt pretty solid to me.

Nice, big holds most of the way, well-spaced bolts, and a couple of fun overhanging bits that aren't too hard to figure out. Best easy/moderate climb I've been on at the Palace; respectable 5.7. Aug 18, 2016
Conor O
Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.7+
Conor O   Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.7+
Nice warm-up route on the far right side of the face. Easy to spot, because of the obvious, orange, lichen streak on it! Probably 5.7+ is a more fitting grade for this route being that it is slightly longer and more technical than the other two 5.7 climbs to the left of "Orange You Glad". Apr 3, 2016
As a relatively novice lead climber, I thought this was an exciting lead. The climbing itself is easy enough, but pulling onto the top boulder was a bit spicy above the bolt. I also think this is a pretty challenging 5.7, the crux seems harder than others in the grade. Really fun climb, though! Oct 23, 2015
Dylan Demyanek
Fort Collins, CO
 
Dylan Demyanek   Fort Collins, CO
 
This route is a nice one, even for more experienced climbers. The moves were enjoyable, and pulling onto the detached block was fun. I was pleasantly surprised for the grade. I could see the crux move being more 5.8ish, but I tend to agree with the 5.7 grade overall. Jan 27, 2013
Wes B.
 
Wes B.  
 
In the guidebook, it states that this route is a 5.7. We thought that it was at least one grade harder than the climb River Rats. This route is a lot of fun, but if you're a 5.7 leader top rope it first! Mar 4, 2010