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Routes in Kanaranzi Buttress (South Face)

5/8 TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gambler, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Line Trois TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
K-1 TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kanaranzi Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kanaranzi Left TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kanaranzi Roof TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Layback, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Natural, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
On a roll (a.k.a. Lichen No Other) TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pillar start T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Squeeze, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple Chockstone T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Description

The south face of the Kanaranzi Buttress contains several high quality climbs ranging from 5.5 to 5.11. The bottom of this area is protected from the sun, although the top halves of the climbs do see sun throughout most of the day. The top of the cliff sees plenty of sun as well, so the sunscreen might come in handy while setting up top ropes. The placements tend to be a bit spread out in this area, so bring plenty of webbing.

Getting There

From the parking lot off Rock County Highway 8 take the main paved pedestrian/bike path. One approach is to take the trail the spurs off at the outhouse. Follow this trail to the base of the cliff and continue to the right for about 100 yards to the base of these climbs. Another alternative it to take the next trail after the outhouse, this cuts a direct line to Kanaranzi Buttress (East Face). Continue left a short distance to the South Face.

Top Access/Descent: The easiest access to the top is a third class chimney just left (south) of Triple Chockstone.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Kanaranzi Buttress (South Face)

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Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
A nice semi-shaded area away from the Prarie Walls masses. Most of these routes are average or below average in height for Blue Mounds. A short boulder lies off the trail south of Kanaranzi, good for a few contrived problems. Oct 3, 2006

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