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Routes in Kanaranzi Buttress (South Face)

5/8 TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gambler, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Line Trois TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
K-1 TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kanaranzi Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kanaranzi Left TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kanaranzi Roof TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Layback, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Natural, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
On a roll (a.k.a. Lichen No Other) TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pillar start T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Squeeze, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple Chockstone T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,008 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on Jun 5, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route

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The name says it all. Layback the crack. A fun and challenging route. Usually done as a top rope problem, but could be lead if someone was so inclined.
  • RCM&W #27, p.37.


To the right of The Squeeze lies a roof with a thin crack.


Small stuff to protect the crack. Standard top rope setup.
Suggested rack in order (C4 sizes): .4, .3, .2, .2, .3, .75, .3

I got a .2 C4 as my last piece in the roof crack and leaned out to get a .3 in the vertical crack, then went up into the crux and fell...and that .3 popped. The .2 held and I lightly touched ground. So the second time I got the .3 in better and also got a purple link cam kind of in there, but they were probably no better. I think another .2 (I didn't have one) is what would have been better for the beginning of the vertical crack to protect the crux as you get above the roof. Aug 9, 2017

More About The Layback