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Routes in Kanaranzi Buttress (South Face)

5/8 TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gambler, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Line Trois TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
K-1 TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kanaranzi Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kanaranzi Left TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kanaranzi Roof TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Layback, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Natural, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
On a roll (a.k.a. Lichen No Other) TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pillar start T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Squeeze, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple Chockstone T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 130 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on Jun 5, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route

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Follow the crack. Those not wanting to use offwidth/chimney technique will find many pleasing features within and outside the crack.
  • RCM&W #26, p.37.


This route is the crack in the corner to the right of 5/8.


Leadable but you'd need big stuff, a #4 camalot would be your microcam. Standard top rope setup.


Pete Hunt
Pete Hunt  
I first climbed this without any prior knowledge and guessed a rating of 5.8. I was a little surprised to see that it was marked as a 5.7. I have since seen climbers who climb far above this grade slow down more than expected at the crux. Ratings aside, the crux is interesting and requires some creative body positions and maneuvering. I've seen a couple different methods work. Fun climb and worth doing. Jul 18, 2009
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
I thought 5.7 was pretty spot on despite my choice of footwear (Teva sandals). Definitely worth doing if you're in the area and especially if you like the wide stuff. Jul 26, 2009
Branden Michelkamp
Salt Lake City
  5.7 PG13
Branden Michelkamp   Salt Lake City
  5.7 PG13
This route is for sure a 5.7, weird move in the middle and I did it on Trad lead and would say its a PG13 route as my 6 would not even come close to being solid in the off width. Once you are past the 5.7 move that is well protected with a small cam its a cake walk. Climb on. Jun 21, 2011

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