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Routes in Kanaranzi Buttress (South Face)

5/8 TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gambler, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Line Trois TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
K-1 TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kanaranzi Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kanaranzi Left TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kanaranzi Roof TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Layback, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Natural, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
On a roll (a.k.a. Lichen No Other) TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pillar start T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Squeeze, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple Chockstone T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,537 total · 12/month
Shared By: Joe Mokrycki on Jul 7, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

The roofs and arete add more exposure than you usually find here. There is a dihedral at the junction of the south and east faces. Climb the corner up to the first roof, go right, then up the east-facing crack to the upper roof (which can easily be made harder, but hardly made easier).

Location

Start on the south face near the corner, its pretty hard to miss.

Protection

I would have a lot of large pro. Up around the second roof there is a beautiful pothole you can thread with a sling. There is another large pothole that can be slung for an anchor. Better yet, just walk around back, climb the fairly easy Class 3 chimney to set up a top-rope.

Photos

Pete Hunt  
 
I didn't think this was the greatest as a lead climb. The crux at the top is tricky to protect. The rock in that section is also detached-looking. Great route as a TR, although the rock at the top is still worth keeping an eye on and huge in the event that it did come off. Mar 13, 2014
Sam Smolnisky
Custer, SD
Sam Smolnisky   Custer, SD
I didn't have anything bigger than a #3 C4 when I lead this, and it forced me to run it out between roofs. At the second roof, above the place where you can thread a sling, I found a small pocket crack that fit a #2 Master Cam. I felt better about that placement than the sling. To each their own Sep 23, 2011

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