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Routes in Kanaranzi Buttress (South Face)

5/8 TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gambler, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Line Trois TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
K-1 TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kanaranzi Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kanaranzi Left TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kanaranzi Roof TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Layback, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Natural, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
On a roll (a.k.a. Lichen No Other) TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pillar start T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Squeeze, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple Chockstone T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,614 total · 12/month
Shared By: Joe Mokrycki on Jul 7, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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The roofs and arete add more exposure than you usually find here. There is a dihedral at the junction of the south and east faces. Climb the corner up to the first roof, go right, then up the east-facing crack to the upper roof (which can easily be made harder, but hardly made easier).


Start on the south face near the corner, its pretty hard to miss.


I would have a lot of large pro. Up around the second roof there is a beautiful pothole you can thread with a sling. There is another large pothole that can be slung for an anchor. Better yet, just walk around back, climb the fairly easy Class 3 chimney to set up a top-rope.


Sam Smolnisky
Custer, SD
Sam Smolnisky   Custer, SD
I didn't have anything bigger than a #3 C4 when I lead this, and it forced me to run it out between roofs. At the second roof, above the place where you can thread a sling, I found a small pocket crack that fit a #2 Master Cam. I felt better about that placement than the sling. To each their own Sep 23, 2011
Pete Hunt  
I didn't think this was the greatest as a lead climb. The crux at the top is tricky to protect. The rock in that section is also detached-looking. Great route as a TR, although the rock at the top is still worth keeping an eye on and huge in the event that it did come off. Mar 13, 2014

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