Trapezoid Peak Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 12,920 ft | 3,938 m |
GPS: |
37.124, -118.576 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 20,115 total · 89/month | |
Shared By: | Chris Owen on Apr 13, 2006 · Updates | |
Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Trapezoid Peak is a striking vertical wall of green granite clearly visible as the next peak west of Mt. Goode on the Bishop Pass Trail. Its trapezoidal shape stands out on the skyline and its climbing wall faces due east, receiving morning sun and afternoon shade.
In addition to a striking ridge traverse to the summit, Trapezoid hosts the highest concentration of quality hard multi-pitch trad climbs on one formation in the entire range, second only to the Hulk.
The monolithic east face had remained unclimbed until the summer of 2020 when three quality routes were put up on the right side of Trap, dubbed the Geometry Wall.
In the summer of 2022 Trapezoid was transformed with the addition of four new routes on the smooth, green left side, called the Kaleidoscope Wall. This section of wall hosts some of the best rock and cleanest hard splitters anywhere in the range. For accessibility, difficulty and quality, these routes can’t be beat.
Getting There
Start at the South Lake trailhead and hike toward Bishop Pass. Follow the trail to Long Lake, cross over it's headwaters and find faint trails which hike up a shallow valley SW to Margaret Lake. This is a good base if camping for both Trapezoid and Goode. From Margaret Lake, do not go directly towards Mt Goode up the steep nasty glacial moraine which looms above Margaret Lake. Instead from the north side of the lake follow faint climber trails which contour due west and up the obvious drainage to the right of the steep nasty scree slope. Nice walking up grassy slopes and granite slabs leads up this drainage about 1 mile until the drainage peters out into steep talus to the south (towards Goode). Leave the drainage and gain the talus top to where Goode is clearly visible, continue towards Goode on talus for climbs on Mt. Goode. For Trapezoid, go up and right on the talus until a narrow talus drainage comes in from the west (right). Head west (right) and follow the bottom of this talus drainage for 1/4 mile to near the base of Trapezoid (the right side of the drainage is the north most wall of the whole cirque and above right is the ridge from Hurd Peak to Trapezoid. The left side of this narrow drainage is a short steep morraine above which is the main talus field which will also get you to Trapezoid, but has much larger blocks and is harder to navigate than this small drainage route). 5 miles and 2,500 ft elevation gain.
Classic Climbing Routes at Trapezoid Peak
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