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Elevation: 12,920 ft 3,938 m
GPS: 37.124, -118.576
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 20,115 total · 89/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Apr 13, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

Trapezoid Peak is a striking vertical wall of green granite clearly visible as the next peak west of Mt. Goode on the Bishop Pass Trail. Its trapezoidal shape stands out on the skyline and its climbing wall faces due east, receiving morning sun and afternoon shade.

In addition to a striking ridge traverse to the summit, Trapezoid hosts the highest concentration of quality hard multi-pitch trad climbs on one formation in the entire range, second only to the Hulk.

The monolithic east face had remained unclimbed until the summer of 2020 when three quality routes were put up on the right side of Trap, dubbed the Geometry Wall.

In the summer of 2022 Trapezoid was transformed with the addition of four new routes on the smooth, green left side, called the Kaleidoscope Wall. This section of wall hosts some of the best rock and cleanest hard splitters anywhere in the range. For accessibility, difficulty and quality, these routes can’t be beat. 

Getting There Suggest change

Start at the South Lake trailhead and hike toward Bishop Pass. Follow the trail to Long Lake, cross over it's headwaters and find faint trails which hike up a shallow valley SW to Margaret Lake. This is a good base if camping for both Trapezoid and Goode. From Margaret Lake, do not go directly towards Mt Goode up the steep nasty glacial moraine which looms above Margaret Lake. Instead from the north side of the lake follow faint climber trails which contour due west and up the obvious drainage to the right of the steep nasty scree slope. Nice walking up grassy slopes and granite slabs leads up this drainage about 1 mile until the drainage peters out into steep talus to the south (towards Goode). Leave the drainage and gain the talus top to where Goode is clearly visible, continue towards Goode on talus for climbs on Mt. Goode. For Trapezoid, go up and right on the talus until a narrow talus drainage comes in from the west (right). Head west (right) and follow the bottom of this talus drainage for 1/4 mile to near the base of Trapezoid (the right side of the drainage is the north most wall of the whole cirque and above right is the ridge from Hurd Peak to Trapezoid. The left side of this narrow drainage is a short steep morraine above which is the main talus field which will also get you to Trapezoid, but has much larger blocks and is harder to navigate than this small drainage route). 5 miles and 2,500 ft elevation gain.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Trapezoid Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 10
North Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 6
North Slab
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
It's a Trap!...ezoid
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Man on the Flying Trapezoid
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 18
Puff the Magic Dragon
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 14
Rasta Root
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
North Ridge
 10
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
North Slab
 6
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
It's a Trap!...ezoid
 6
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Man on the Flying Trapezoid
 5
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Puff the Magic Dragon
 18
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Rasta Root
 14
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Trapezoid Peak »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Routes Mostly Face: Northeast
Sunny Roughly 6am to 1pm during high season
6am
8pm
Details: Geometry Wall goes in the shade at 1

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