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Routes in Trapezoid Peak

North Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Northwest Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 4000 ft
FA: Sierra Club party - August 1939
Page Views: 948 total · 6/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Apr 13, 2006
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is an excellent long and exposed ridge traverse with spectacular views.

Gain the first summit by scrambling up its NE ridge, the odd Class 4 moves here and there. Follow the main horizontal ridge, keep right at the occasional impasse - the views across to Trapezoid's monolithic Northeast Wall are awe-inspiring. The ridge ends at a some towers and a notch. Descend down into the gap and then up a Class 3 face to the summit plateau.

Location

Hike up to "Hurd Col" from Margaret Lake. The ridge to the first summit starts here.

Descent
Down climb or rappel the Class 3 face back into the notch, the
Descending the North Gully descends from the notch and makes a very quick way off. Ice-axe may be required (seasonal).

Protection

Solo - or light rope and rack. Approach shoes suffice.

Photos

Justin Peacock
Concord, CA
Justin Peacock   Concord, CA
Fun and seemingly seldom-done ridge in a great setting. It's mostly straightforward class 3, with a couple of route finding challenges. We brought a 30m rope and only used it at the very end of the ridge on a super exposed traverse. Many people will be comfortable soloing this I'm sure.

The slabs above the notch leading to the summit are really loose. We actually chose to use the rope for one section when descending and the added security was appreciated.

The descent down the north gully is heinous and dangerous when totally dry. Take care. Sep 24, 2018

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