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Routes in Trapezoid Peak

North Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Northwest Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 4000 ft
FA: Sierra Club party - August 1939
Page Views: 889 total · 6/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Apr 13, 2006
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This is an excellent long and exposed ridge traverse with spectacular views.

Gain the first summit by scrambling up its NE ridge, the odd Class 4 moves here and there. Follow the main horizontal ridge, keep right at the occasional impasse - the views across to Trapezoid's monolithic Northeast Wall are awe-inspiring. The ridge ends at a some towers and a notch. Descend down into the gap and then up a Class 3 face to the summit plateau.


Hike up to "Hurd Col" from Margaret Lake. The ridge to the first summit starts here.

Down climb or rappel the Class 3 face back into the notch, the
Descending the North Gully descends from the notch and makes a very quick way off. Ice-axe may be required (seasonal).


Solo - or light rope and rack. Approach shoes suffice.



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