Puff the Magic Dragon
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.7 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Chase Leary, Andy Puhvel|
|Page Views:||1,753 total · 176/month|
|Shared By:||Andy Puhvel on Aug 5, 2022|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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This amazing route climbs some of the best rock found in the High Sierra. The climbing mostly follows laser cut thin cracks and clean faces up an almost vertical wall. All pitches are super safe with bolts whenever the gear is not bomber. All belays are bolted and equipped for rappelling and the route can be safely rapped with a 70m rope.
Pitch 1- Start up a few moves over ledgy 5th class trending left until a large sloping ledge leads right and up to the super clean white right facing finger crack. Follow this for 30 feet to the belay bolts. 20 m, 5.10a.
Pitch 2- A few bolts of easier climbing lead to the right facing flare, stem up and surmount the roof (crux), follow the clean splitter above past another crux to the belay. 35 m, 5.11c
Pitch 3- A clean offset splitter leads directly up and eventually exits out left to the belay. 30 m, 5.12a.
Pitch 4 - Follow easy ledges and cracks up to the vertical clean wall with the obvious “Joint” cracks which are where Puff the Magic Dragon and Shield of Dreams cross each other. 20 m, 5.6.
Pitch 5- Climb the right leaning cutter crack on the clean flat wall. 20 m, 5.11c.
Pitch 6- Start on the slab left of the belay, traverse the slab right and climb up through easier terrain until reaching an inobvious large white flake which cuts back left 10 feet to an invisible short left facing steep corner which leads up to the obvious crack (do not go up and right into the large triangular roof recess, but traverse left 10 feet below this feature as described above). Follow the crack for 30 feet up to the awesome bolted face above. 35 m, 5.12b.
The leftmost route on the incredible face of Trapezoid. To get to the base, follow the steep scree/talus and locate the large flat safe ledges directly under the vertical green wall. The left side of these ledges mark the spot to rope up for Puff the Magic Dragon. The belay bolts at the top of pitch 1 can be seen up and left about 70 feet up. Begin up somewhat dirty 5th class ledges until reaching the base of the clean sharp short white 5.10a lieback finger crack which leads to the belay.