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Areas in Dixon Lake

Eagles Peak Area 8 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Moon Germs 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Prowe Area, The 5 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 8
Roof Area, The 4 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Y Crack Area, The 6 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Elevation: 1,045 ft
GPS: 33.161, -117.046 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 28, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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The Place

This oldie but goody lies in north Escondido, in the city park of Dixon Lake. This climbing area is a small outcrop of rocks, that has several clean cracks and faces for the novice/intermediate to set up. Its been used and abused, with partiers and cavalier bolters having their way with the place, but beyond the ill-treated history lies several routes that will remain worthy of many new climbers aspirations. Some bouldering exists, although compared to other areas it may seem a bit contrived.

Locals have done every line on every boulder and recorded so. Its history dates back to the 70's, but the real action took place in the 80's/early 90's. In the 80's folks like Andy Redding, Tim Gallagher and Ed Worsman cleaned up several lines and laid the way for the 90's with the likes of Verdugo, DanO, Stackhouse and several others. Prior to regional guidebooks, this area was known as Eagles Peak.
Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Getting There

Via I15, exit El Norte Parkway and head east. Follow this for about 4 miles until the park sign appears to one's left. Turn left here on La Honda Drive. Following this one mile up the steep road, where one can get a glimpse of the crags on the right up on the hill. At the park entrance, follow the signs to "Trout Cove" parking lot. Park here and jog across the road to a trail that gives one a visual of the first part of Dixon Lake Crags in about 30 seconds. There is a $5 per vehicle day-use charge on weekends and holidays. Because of the potential problem with poaching, visitors to the rocks are encouraged to observe the closing time of the lake to avoid a Entrance is free during the week.

39 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Dixon Lake

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Y Crack
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bouldering Face
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butthole Express
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Eagles Peak
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hairy Airy
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The Shoulder
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Overhanging Buckets
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blood and Roses
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
The Roof
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Double D
TR
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chinese Arithmetic (aka Chopped Suey)
TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triple D
TR
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
The Prowe
TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Overhanging Face
TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Overhanging Crack
TR
The Y Crack Y Crack Area 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Bouldering Face Eagles Peak Area 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Butthole Express Y Crack Area 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Eagles Peak Eagles Peak Area 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, TR
Hairy Airy Y Crack Area 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Shoulder Roof Area 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Overhanging Buckets Eagles Peak Area 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Blood and Roses Prowe Area 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
The Roof Roof Area 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Double D Roof Area 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR
Chinese Arithmetic (aka Cho… Eagles Peak Area 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
Triple D Roof Area 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
The Prowe Prowe Area 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a TR
Overhanging Face Eagles Peak Area 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a TR
Overhanging Crack Eagles Peak Area 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a TR
More Classic Climbs in Dixon Lake »

Weather Averages

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Chris Barton
San Diego, CA
Chris Barton   San Diego, CA
Climbing is still closed in this area. Rangers guessed they would open it back up in six months. Sep 30, 2017
Had the same thing happen to me on Sunday, except there was a guy at the kiosk that turned me around. He said there was talk of implementing a permit/reservation system to try and keep track of who is going in and out (aka who is leaving trash and graffiti). Hopefully the ranger was misinformed or hopefully they will take input from the public on this terrible idea. Jul 11, 2017
Rolled up to Dixon Lake after work yesterday (7/11/17) to go climbing and found out access to the Y-crack and Eagles Peak area is completely closed. I left a voicemail with the rangers to find out what was going on. She called me back the next day, and said "we had a fire", and that the area was closed "until further notice", and that it "would be a looong time" until it was open again. If it's just a matter of manual labor to get this place open, maybe we could help? Jul 11, 2017
I have contacted the ranger inquiring about this reported closure and will work on it.
Josh Higgins
President Allied Climbers of San Diego
www.alliedclimbers.org Jun 1, 2017
FYI, I tried to climb here on May 28th, 2017 and found out the area is closed indefinitely due to the vandalism in the area. The ranger was sympathetic to climbers and refunded my parking fee but did not have any information on future access. Jun 1, 2017
Idiot taggers and other losers have continued to trash the place.... I was there last Friday and as we were hiking up to eagles area a spray can flew over our heads. ... Not happy. So when I got topside I asked the punk kids if they are trying to get us all kicked out and the place shut down. They played stupid even though it reaked like paint.. I told them if they keep tagging and treating it like $h** that's what will happen ...

If you come in please grab some trash on your way out ... It sure could use the clean up... Oct 19, 2016
Robert Karl
Pasadena, CA
Robert Karl   Pasadena, CA
Watch out!

I came up to Dixon today for the first time and hiked over to Eagles Peak Area. There was a group of kids milling around on top of the formation. Figured they were harmless so I scrambled around to the edge below that looked over the valley to see if I could identify any routes from MP. Rocks started raining 10 feet from me, from above where the kids were! Since I was alone I skedaddled without looking back. Be careful here! Jul 24, 2016
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
Just to be even more obvious with directions,
the crag is just west of Trout Cove, which is the western end of the lake. Sep 16, 2013
Pretty grungy place. Losers love to hang out and trash the place. If you see any taggers, feel free to show them the trail out, or how hard granite is. Overall, though, pretty food top ropes with a wide range of ratings all in one big clump.

There is a parking fee of $5 per vehicle(12/22/12), but only on holidays and weekends. Dogs are not allowed. Dec 22, 2012
I was just a kid when I was introduced to this area by a climbing friend. I was obsessed with climbing history books. I would do Y Crack and Hairy A and pretend I was way up high on Half Dome or El Cap. I still remember the first time I did TR'd these routes and how great it felt to do them on lead with gear.
This place will always be special to me and I hope it will remain open and mostly clean. Jan 30, 2012
Russell
Fallbrook, California
Russell   Fallbrook, California
FYI, Dogs are NOT allowed in the park. the wife and i took the dog with us when we went to climb and found we had wasted a trip. Mar 22, 2011
steemo  
The park fee as of 4/18/09 is now $5. Apr 21, 2009
Fins129  
Careful about going on Saturday mornings. A few organized groups climb here. Once saw 3 groups of about 10-15 people each climbing here. It didn't leave many climbs left to climb. But still a fun area. Nov 14, 2008
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
The entire park was closed for Christmas Day, 2007. Nobody was allowed in. Bummer. Dec 27, 2007

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