Elevation: 1,045 ft
GPS: 33.162, -117.053 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 64,873 total · 369/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 28, 2006 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

The Place

This oldie but goody lies in north Escondido, in the city park of Dixon Lake. This climbing area is a small outcrop of rocks, that has several clean cracks and faces for the novice/intermediate to set up. Its been used and abused, with partiers and cavalier bolters having their way with the place, but beyond the ill-treated history lies several routes that will remain worthy of many new climbers aspirations. Some bouldering exists, although compared to other areas it may seem a bit contrived.

Locals have done every line on every boulder and recorded so. Its history dates back to the 70's, but the real action took place in the 80's/early 90's. In the 80's folks like Andy Redding, Tim Gallagher and Ed Worsman cleaned up several lines and laid the way for the 90's with the likes of Verdugo, DanO, Stackhouse and several others. Prior to regional guidebooks, this area was known as Eagles Peak.

Getting There

Via I15, exit El Norte Parkway and head east. Follow this for about 4 miles until the park sign appears to one's left. Turn left here on La Honda Drive. Following this one mile up the steep road, where one can get a glimpse of the crags on the right up on the hill. At the park entrance, follow the signs to "Trout Cove" parking lot. Park here and jog across the road to a trail that gives one a visual of the first part of Dixon Lake Crags in about 30 seconds. There is a $5 per vehicle day-use charge on weekends and holidays. Because of the potential problem with poaching, visitors to the rocks are encouraged to observe the closing time of the lake to avoid a
Leave on time Entrance is free during the week.

Call ahead to ranger station day of to acquire climbing permit (760) 839-4345. Climbing is only permitted during park hours & number of groups/people allowed to climb each day is limited. Work with the rangers, pack in pack out, and do your part to keep access to this crag open!

39 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Dixon Lake Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Dixon Lake

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 99
The Y Crack
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Bouldering Face
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 68
Butthole Express
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 16
Eagles Peak
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 28
Hairy Airy
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 47
The Shoulder
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Overhanging Buckets
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
Blood and Roses
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 21
The Roof
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 22
Double D
TR
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Chinese Arithmetic (aka Chopped…
TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 14
Triple D
TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
The Prowe
TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 5
Overhanging Face
TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Overhanging Crack
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Y Crack Y Crack Area
 99
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Bouldering Face Eagles Peak Area
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Butthole Express Y Crack Area
 68
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Eagles Peak Eagles Peak Area
 16
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, TR
Hairy Airy Y Crack Area
 28
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Shoulder Roof Area
 47
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Overhanging Buckets Eagles Peak Area
 6
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Blood and Roses Prowe Area
 11
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
The Roof Roof Area
 21
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Double D Roof Area
 22
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR
Chinese Arithmetic (aka Cho… Eagles Peak Area
 4
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
Triple D Roof Area
 14
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
The Prowe Prowe Area
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a TR
Overhanging Face Eagles Peak Area
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a TR
Overhanging Crack Eagles Peak Area
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a TR
More Classic Climbs in Dixon Lake »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos