Elevation: 1,045 ft
GPS: 33.161, -117.046 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 45,526 total · 288/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 28, 2006 with updates from Arlene Ruda
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Sorry, weather is currently unavailable.
Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

The Place

This oldie but goody lies in north Escondido, in the city park of Dixon Lake. This climbing area is a small outcrop of rocks, that has several clean cracks and faces for the novice/intermediate to set up. Its been used and abused, with partiers and cavalier bolters having their way with the place, but beyond the ill-treated history lies several routes that will remain worthy of many new climbers aspirations. Some bouldering exists, although compared to other areas it may seem a bit contrived.

Locals have done every line on every boulder and recorded so. Its history dates back to the 70's, but the real action took place in the 80's/early 90's. In the 80's folks like Andy Redding, Tim Gallagher and Ed Worsman cleaned up several lines and laid the way for the 90's with the likes of Verdugo, DanO, Stackhouse and several others. Prior to regional guidebooks, this area was known as Eagles Peak.

Getting There

Via I15, exit El Norte Parkway and head east. Follow this for about 4 miles until the park sign appears to one's left. Turn left here on La Honda Drive. Following this one mile up the steep road, where one can get a glimpse of the crags on the right up on the hill. At the park entrance, follow the signs to "Trout Cove" parking lot. Park here and jog across the road to a trail that gives one a visual of the first part of Dixon Lake Crags in about 30 seconds. There is a $5 per vehicle day-use charge on weekends and holidays. Because of the potential problem with poaching, visitors to the rocks are encouraged to observe the closing time of the lake to avoid a
Leave on time Entrance is free during the week.

Call ahead to ranger station day of to acquire climbing permit (760) 839-4345. Climbing is only permitted during park hours & number of groups/people allowed to climb each day is limited. Work with the rangers, pack in pack out, and do your part to keep access to this crag open!

39 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Dixon Lake

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 91
The Y Crack
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Bouldering Face
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 60
Butthole Express
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 15
Eagles Peak
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 26
Hairy Airy
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 46
The Shoulder
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Overhanging Buckets
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Blood and Roses
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 21
The Roof
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 21
Double D
TR
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Chinese Arithmetic (aka Chopped…
TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Triple D
TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
The Prowe
TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 4
Overhanging Face
TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Overhanging Crack
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Y Crack Y Crack Area
 91
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Bouldering Face Eagles Peak Area
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Butthole Express Y Crack Area
 60
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Eagles Peak Eagles Peak Area
 15
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, TR
Hairy Airy Y Crack Area
 26
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Shoulder Roof Area
 46
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Overhanging Buckets Eagles Peak Area
 6
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Blood and Roses Prowe Area
 10
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
The Roof Roof Area
 21
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Double D Roof Area
 21
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR
Chinese Arithmetic (aka Cho… Eagles Peak Area
 4
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
Triple D Roof Area
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
The Prowe Prowe Area
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a TR
Overhanging Face Eagles Peak Area
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a TR
Overhanging Crack Eagles Peak Area
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a TR
More Classic Climbs in Dixon Lake »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
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outdooreric
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
The entire park was closed for Christmas Day, 2007. Nobody was allowed in. Bummer. Dec 27, 2007
Fins129  
Careful about going on Saturday mornings. A few organized groups climb here. Once saw 3 groups of about 10-15 people each climbing here. It didn't leave many climbs left to climb. But still a fun area. Nov 14, 2008
steemo  
The park fee as of 4/18/09 is now $5. Apr 21, 2009
Russell
Fallbrook, California
Russell   Fallbrook, California
FYI, Dogs are NOT allowed in the park. the wife and i took the dog with us when we went to climb and found we had wasted a trip. Mar 22, 2011
I was just a kid when I was introduced to this area by a climbing friend. I was obsessed with climbing history books. I would do Y Crack and Hairy A and pretend I was way up high on Half Dome or El Cap. I still remember the first time I did TR'd these routes and how great it felt to do them on lead with gear.
This place will always be special to me and I hope it will remain open and mostly clean. Jan 30, 2012
Pretty grungy place. Losers love to hang out and trash the place. If you see any taggers, feel free to show them the trail out, or how hard granite is. Overall, though, pretty food top ropes with a wide range of ratings all in one big clump.

There is a parking fee of $5 per vehicle(12/22/12), but only on holidays and weekends. Dogs are not allowed. Dec 22, 2012
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
Just to be even more obvious with directions,
the crag is just west of Trout Cove, which is the western end of the lake. Sep 16, 2013
Robert Karl
Pasadena, CA
Robert Karl   Pasadena, CA
Watch out!

I came up to Dixon today for the first time and hiked over to Eagles Peak Area. There was a group of kids milling around on top of the formation. Figured they were harmless so I scrambled around to the edge below that looked over the valley to see if I could identify any routes from MP. Rocks started raining 10 feet from me, from above where the kids were! Since I was alone I skedaddled without looking back. Be careful here! Jul 24, 2016
Idiot taggers and other losers have continued to trash the place.... I was there last Friday and as we were hiking up to eagles area a spray can flew over our heads. ... Not happy. So when I got topside I asked the punk kids if they are trying to get us all kicked out and the place shut down. They played stupid even though it reaked like paint.. I told them if they keep tagging and treating it like $h** that's what will happen ...

If you come in please grab some trash on your way out ... It sure could use the clean up... Oct 19, 2016
FYI, I tried to climb here on May 28th, 2017 and found out the area is closed indefinitely due to the vandalism in the area. The ranger was sympathetic to climbers and refunded my parking fee but did not have any information on future access. Jun 1, 2017
Josh Higgins
San Diego, CA
Josh Higgins   San Diego, CA
I have contacted the ranger inquiring about this reported closure and will work on it.
Josh Higgins
President Allied Climbers of San Diego
www.alliedclimbers.org Jun 1, 2017
Rolled up to Dixon Lake after work yesterday (7/11/17) to go climbing and found out access to the Y-crack and Eagles Peak area is completely closed. I left a voicemail with the rangers to find out what was going on. She called me back the next day, and said "we had a fire", and that the area was closed "until further notice", and that it "would be a looong time" until it was open again. If it's just a matter of manual labor to get this place open, maybe we could help? Jul 11, 2017
Had the same thing happen to me on Sunday, except there was a guy at the kiosk that turned me around. He said there was talk of implementing a permit/reservation system to try and keep track of who is going in and out (aka who is leaving trash and graffiti). Hopefully the ranger was misinformed or hopefully they will take input from the public on this terrible idea. Jul 11, 2017
Chase Leoncini
San Diego, California
Chase Leoncini   San Diego, California
This area is still closed and I talked to a ranger in December who said it is closed indefinitely. He went on to say that if anyone wanted to be able to climb here they needed to get a group to take it up with city hall and that it was likely that the closure would end.
Now, where could we rally a group of climbers?.... And how could we reach out to them? Hmmmm..... Jan 17, 2018
Tim Sweet
San diego
Tim Sweet   San diego
Chase, the ACSD is currently working with the rangers to get this back opened. From what I heard they're almost there with re-opening. Jan 24, 2018
Vlad B
San Diego
Vlad B   San Diego
Does anyone know if Dixon is open now? Feb 23, 2018
It's not but there's a clean up tomorrow, Saturday, at 10 am to get it open. Feb 23, 2018
Missed the cleanup - was there any progress with reopening it? Mar 1, 2018
Jesse S  
Total bummer. Still closed. Don't get it. Mar 31, 2018
Tried to go yesterday. The area is still closed to the public. Talked to a park ranger and she said that there are no plans on re-opening the area anytime soon. She said to contact the ACSD if you have any questions. Apr 22, 2018
Kyle Means
Temecula, CA
Kyle Means   Temecula, CA
Says status open on acsd. Anyone know if this is true or not? Jul 3, 2018
Area is OPEN - but access is limited (must acquire permit, check in at ranger station to get key, checkout and return key, number of climbers and groups per day are limited). We climbed here on 10/22/18. I will upload a photo of the blank permit & rules.

Dixon Lake Ranger # is (760) 839-4345 . Call ahead day of to acquire permit. It's worth having this number in your phone just in case you see suspicious activity - we want to protect access & need to do our part. It seems as though the fence surrounding the climbing area isn't keeping anyone out and we noticed/reported fresh tagging on the rocks and trash. We only climbed in the Y-Crack area and the Roof area, but were told by the ranger that the top areas are still damaged from fire and the trail hasn't been maintained. Oct 24, 2018
Andrew F
San Diego, CA
Andrew F   San Diego, CA
Area is open, but rather confusing on how to get access. I was told different things from different people.

The superintendent told me to just go down there with the permit. I called again and was told you have to call and reserve a spot ahead of time. The permit says no reservations.

Then when we got there, the person at concessions almost gave the key to someone else before we told her that we had called ahead and reserved it.

Fun area to climb, but they need to get it straight about how to go about it. Seems to be no communication between the people running the place.

Call ahead to avoid having to pay to get in only to be told there's already a group up there, or going up Nov 20, 2018
MM MM  
[Following info re-posted from forum thread]

On Saturday, December 8th, from 10:00 AM-12:00 PM, the Dixon Lake rangers will host a crag cleanup event for volunteers from the community. Folks are encouraged to come out in the late morning for litter removal and light trail work...and welcome to climb to their hearts' content afterward! (Climbing gear not provided.) The park entrance fee will be waived for volunteers, and coffee and donuts will be provided! *This is also a great opportunity to learn more about the permit process, underlying causes of the access restrictions, and more ways to contribute to good stewardship in the area! Park rangers will be happy to discuss with volunteers these and other subjects at the event.* Dec 2, 2018 · Temporary Report