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Routes in The Roof Area

Chimney Sweep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Double D TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jam Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roof, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shoulder, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Triple D TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,371 total, 23/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 4, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

This is the crack climb of Dixon Lake. Fingers to fist, this crack climb is truly a classic and a standard for the grade. It is the very clean crack on the right side of The Roof wall. The crux is entering the bulge portion of the crack, halfway up. A right foot is the key before liebacking a move or two to a couple of left traversing moves at the finish. Highly Recommended.

Protection

2 bolt anchor, or standard rack for lead.
Ryan N
Bellingham, WA
Ryan N   Bellingham, WA
Excellent climb for the grade. There's bomber pro the whole way up the crack. The last 5 feet seems insecure but it's all there. Small .5 to 2 camalots will sew it up nice. Oct 13, 2012
Noah Fogel
Cbad CA
 
Noah Fogel   Cbad CA
 
super good warmup Apr 8, 2012
johnnydanger
California
  5.10a/b
johnnydanger   California
  5.10a/b
Fun Lead two days ago. Liebacked all the way up. One hard move getting your foot up right where the crack turns. Once you get that move, its pretty mellow all the way up and across to the left to top-out. I used a small BD stopper at the start of the crack..a BD 0.3 a few feet above that. Then a BD #2 two feet above the crux. A BD #1 at the top right corner and last a draw or biener off webbing from the bolts for the no feet, hand over hand traverse left and then manteled it out. Jan 21, 2011
Steve Shumaker
  5.10a
Steve Shumaker  
  5.10a
A few painful hand jams through the crux solve the barn door problem. Jun 2, 2009
G.McCay
Galloway, NJ
G.McCay   Galloway, NJ
Recent email on Dixon Lake...

RE: rc.com post
From: ANDREW REDDING (bajaandy@hughes.net)
Add contact
Sent:Thu 11/29/07 12:57 PM
Reply-to:ANDREW REDDING (bajaandy@hughes.net)


To: illusiondweller@hotmail.com

"...The climb known now as "The Shoulder" was actually named "Off The Shoulder", due to the buldge at the crux that caused you to barn-door off the climb as you lie-backed your way up. That climb was probably one of the best climbs I ever had the honor of climbing first, both on top rope and on lead. Just a way fun climb.

I dug through some old photos and found a few of me getting the first lead of Off The Shoulder. They're dark and poor quality, so I doubt that they'd scan worth a darn. It's funny, cuz you can just make out that I'm wearing Boreal Fire climbing shoes. Talk about mid 80's high tech!

Anyway, look forward to chatting with you one of these days.

Andy" Dec 5, 2007