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Routes in The Y Crack Area

5.11 Problem, The TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Butthole Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Flake, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hairy Airy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 56 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Y Crack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,917 total, 20/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 4, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

This is the first route encountered at the Y Crack Area. It is a four bolt face route that ascends a short series of low angle bulges. Although the crux is mantling over the first bolt, the name comes from the handholds thereafter.

Protection

4 bolts, but need gear for the top anchor
A decade or so ago my son Kurt was here with his high school buddies - all of whom were pretty much non-climbers. He said he led this route in converse tennis shoes. He has never been much of a climber, but he has extraordinary natural ability. That and his very modest nature lead me to believe him. My climbing son, Trevor and I top-roped this with him a couple of years ago and he confirmed it as the route he led. Still hard to fathom. Oct 31, 2017
Joshua Dee
San Diego, CA
 
Joshua Dee   San Diego, CA
 
Be warned: I got to put another lap on this route and just noticed that the second bolt is a buttonhead. Don't get too excited coming out of the crux. Feb 5, 2017
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
 
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
 
Pretty damn tricky for the grade! Interesting and insecure moves on this one. Apr 1, 2013
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
I have led this route a handful of times. It still kicks my butt...HAA!! No pun intended!! Led it again on 5.21.12. vimeo.com/42590183 May 25, 2012
Adam Stackhouse    
 
Not 5.11 as described in the video.


youtube.com/watch?v=FNLUc4q… Jan 16, 2012
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
I TR'd this route for a bit until I was ready to lead it. Fun and balancy. Aug 12, 2011
Always enjoyed this one. Was one of the TR's I put newbies on. Nov 28, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Onsight with no issue. Since then, can't figure my way through it - what the zork am I doing wrong? Jan 27, 2008
Adam Stackhouse    
 
Originally, this was the only bolted lead at Dixon Lake. It consisted of the first two bolts. A third bolt, which has been added sometime in the last couple of years, was always wanted but done traditionally without. Oddly, the Y Crack to the right has had a recently added bolts for a belay/TR set-up despite the obvious pro anchor, but this route which could have used a bolt anchor remains absent of. Mar 4, 2006