Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,521 total · 35/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 4, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


89 Opinions

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Who would have guessed that this is the namesake route for this area. Easily identified on the approach, this great climb involves a thin crack start to a crux move about a third of the way up, where an arching crack meets on the left. Liebacking the OW portion until the Y choice is made, adds to the dimension of moves on this route. Near the top, either L/R finish goes the same, but going right adds a bit of exposure. Highly Recomended

Protection

Standard rack, with a large cam option. Two bolts for the anchor/TR

Photos

Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Fun lead for the grade and well-protected. I enjoy a good crack with no more than a short offwidth section. Jan 27, 2008
This is a route everyone who thinks climbing is for them, should do. Classic! Nov 28, 2008
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
TR'd. Great place to practice on lie back and crack techniques. Aug 13, 2011
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.7
Ryan N
Bellingham, WA
Ryan N   Bellingham, WA
A definite sandbag at 5.7. I'm a descent crack climber and I struggled with it. Couple of #2,3,4 and a 5 to walk up. Very dirty offwidth like some Vedawoo crack. Oct 13, 2012
Andrew TST  
 
One of my first climbs upon moving to San Diego. Still love to go back and climb it, what a great forearm pumper. Nov 27, 2012
MariaZ Zimmerman
San Diego, CA
  5.7
MariaZ Zimmerman   San Diego, CA
  5.7
I was able to use the 5 during this lead and I was glad I had it. Nice long problem for the area. Jul 17, 2017
Miike  
I used to solo this all the time, and have led it on like a single #10 hex placed in the middle. A great climb. I don't remember which now, but one of the exits is 5.8ish and there is a moment at the fork requiring a mantelish slightly insecure move so I wouldn't solo this the first time..the landing would lead to broken bones if you were lucky, or worse.

While some may say this is a sandbag, I've done 5.7s on Tahquitz with OW sections that were waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy harder than this, my friends...not even close. This would be 5.5 up there, so there's that.

A great climb and an area classic. Jun 3, 2018