Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Y Crack Area

5.11 Problem, The TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Butthole Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Flake, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hairy Airy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 56 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Y Crack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Dan O, Mike Verdugo
Page Views: 2,770 total, 20/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 21, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


28 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

This fun route starts in a crack just a few feet right of the Chimney. Take this up to a right slanting crack and traverse over to gain a jug and stand up. From here, follow the arching corner of the rock, liebacking to the right. The crux comes here, afterwhich a super bomber-big jug comes up, where one can do an ultra-photogenic one-handed hang. Easy mantel of the top. Highly recommended.

Protection

TR or a couple of bolts near the top for a lead. The bolt down low is for a right moving varaition at 5.11b.
Tim Sweet
San diego
  5.10a PG13
Tim Sweet   San diego
  5.10a PG13
The main slab/flake at the beginning was vibrating a bit like a drum last time I climbed it. I bailed right before the lieback move at the platform because I felt a little weird about climbing it after that. Jun 2, 2014
Eric Van Williams   Oside,CA
I see that someone added a couple of bolts to this one, its a nice addition if you ask me. This is a solid route, it is horrible that the area gets spray paint... Jul 10, 2013
Tony Thomas
Oceanside, CA
  5.9+ PG13
Tony Thomas   Oceanside, CA
  5.9+ PG13
When Sport Climbing the crux make sure that your belayer keeps the slack a little tighter than usual. There is not much room to take a lead fall since you are only 3-6 feet over the rocks on the ledge. Just be aware of this and you will be fine. Enjoy!

youtube.com/watch?v=th_0qtG… Jun 20, 2013
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
 
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
 
I bailed off this climb thinking that I was a total puss, because it felt waaay harder than 5.9. I must have accidentally stumbled across the 11b variation. Apr 2, 2013
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.9
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.9
If you stick to the flake at the start and climb direct to the ledge with bolts it keeps the rating at 5.6. Aug 31, 2011
I always wondered why that lower bolt was added... Nov 28, 2008