Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,907 total · 12/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 4, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details


This ascends the obvious roof crack via a cave. The crux is reaching up with the right hand and reaching for a "sliding pinky slot." From this reasonably good hold, one pulls the feet up and finishes off via lieback move or two. Thrilling route. Highly recommended


Two Bolts for TR


Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
This was traditionaly rated at 10d, but many have rated this at 11a. You make the choice... Mar 4, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
There is a 5.11 variation employing the dark colored face directly or slightly left, below the roof. Mar 20, 2006
Galloway, NJ
G.McCay   Galloway, NJ
Some recent facts on "The Roof" at Dixon Lake...

RE: rc.com post
From: ANDREW REDDING (bajaandy@hughes.net)
Add contact
Sent:Thu 11/29/07 12:57 PM
Reply-to:ANDREW REDDING (bajaandy@hughes.net)

To: illusiondweller@hotmail.com

"...The original name of that climb was "Worsman's Roof". Ed Worsman was the first to toprope the moves between the two of us. At that time, there was still the stump of a tree sticking out of the upper crack (I had cut the tree off and left the stump as a part of the climb). Eventually the stump rotted out and left that just less than perfect sized crack. I got the first free lead and actually used the stump as protection by slinging it. I doubt it would have held even a small fall! Fun times, those were...

Anyway, look forward to chatting with you one of these days.

Andy" Dec 5, 2007
This route was over too quick. Nov 28, 2008
San Diego, CA
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
This climb takes gear for a lead quite well. Very small cams to 2". It appears there were once pins at the lip of the roof, making nice alien pockets.

Very difficult short crux. Tape recommended. Apr 19, 2009
Escondido, CA
bajaandy   Escondido, CA
Pins were never a part of this climb. Back in the day I lead it with just slung stoppers and wired nuts. I don't know who added the anchor bolts at the top, but those were never necessary either. There's a huge bolder that you can sling with a long piece of webbing. But whatever... May 24, 2009
Steve Shumaker
Steve Shumaker  
I remember this being rated 5.10b (20 years ago). Definitely easier than Double D, even before the crux hold broke off on Double D. Good climb to lead. Jun 2, 2009
Alex Morin
Cardiff-by-the-Sea, CA
Alex Morin   Cardiff-by-the-Sea, CA
Great route! Reaching out of the roof and cranking on a one finger jam to another was the crux for me. Make sure you tape both index fingers or else. 11a for sure. May 1, 2016
Originally 5.10d but a piece broke off at the lip sometime in the late 80s (i guess it was) making it one or two letter grades harder. Really fun TR. You may want tape. The lip encounter is quite a struggle with both a swing-out and a barn door effect possible, and you are going up to jams above that so it isn't over. Another one you wouldn't want to even consider 3rd-classing as the landing is sharp, jagged rocks.

A classic for any area, really great line. Jun 3, 2018