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Lover's Leap Rock Climbing
Routes in Lover's Leap
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It's a Bird! A Plane! T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Love Dike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Love Gun T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Love It Or Leave It T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Lover's Leap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lover's Leap Arete T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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No Holds Barred T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Original Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rescue Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Seamingly Easy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Something for Nothing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Thing, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Unknown T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Where Tunas Flop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Ye Olde Hysterical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Elevation: | 6,863 ft |
| GPS: |
39.616, -105.214 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 74,656 total · 287/month |
| Shared By: | Darrin Stein on Jan 9, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is a 450' monolith just a few miles up US 285 from the exit off C-470 SW of Denver. It seems like every town in America has a place named the same, but I wonder if it climbs as good. I only know of about 10 established routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.11. However, due to its mass, many variations abound to delight most any ability. The routes are mostly crack with some bolted sections.
Getting There
Driving directions from Golden:
From the intersection of CO Hwy 93 and US 6, take US 6 East a few miles to CO-470 East (Colorado Springs). Go 6 mi. on CO-470 to the US 285 South exit. Go 4.3 miles on US 285 South to milepost 247, then continue to a spot where you can turn around. There are several spots for U-turns from the left lane, but the safest is to continue to a right-hand exit and take an overpass back onto US 285 North. Go back to a large pullout at milepost 247.
From the parking area, head east (upstream) about a hundred yards and take a steep path down to the creek. Crossing the creek is made easy with a makeshift bridge made out of logs that is easy to find as you head down the steep bank from the pull out toward Turkey Creek. Once across, find a black rope you can use to get up the steep bank at the other side. Follow a trail through the woods (past a wooden teepee) to a talus field below the rock. Trees are marked with pink tape. Continue up and left to the base of the routes. For the Unknown 5.9, look for bolts heading up a blocky area on the face. The route, Lover's Leap, starts just to the right.
From Bob Brockwehl: Alternate Approach: I climbed at Lover's Leap on June 28 this year and the water level was low enough to use the approach described below. You can bring a short piece of rope to belay people across the creek if necessary (don't tie in for this, just hold on to a loop in the end of the rope).
From the parking area look directly across the creek to find a cleft in the trees on the opposite bank that marks a small tributary stream. Head for this spot (but do not go straight down hill as this will cause erosion). At this point there is a shallow pool that you can wade across. Go up the tributary for 10-20 yards and climb steeply up the left bank for about 20 feet (trail is faint here). This will bring you to an obvious trail leading downstream along the top of the steep creek bank. This trail will turn up hill and take you to the talus field below the crag.
From the intersection of CO Hwy 93 and US 6, take US 6 East a few miles to CO-470 East (Colorado Springs). Go 6 mi. on CO-470 to the US 285 South exit. Go 4.3 miles on US 285 South to milepost 247, then continue to a spot where you can turn around. There are several spots for U-turns from the left lane, but the safest is to continue to a right-hand exit and take an overpass back onto US 285 North. Go back to a large pullout at milepost 247.
From the parking area, head east (upstream) about a hundred yards and take a steep path down to the creek. Crossing the creek is made easy with a makeshift bridge made out of logs that is easy to find as you head down the steep bank from the pull out toward Turkey Creek. Once across, find a black rope you can use to get up the steep bank at the other side. Follow a trail through the woods (past a wooden teepee) to a talus field below the rock. Trees are marked with pink tape. Continue up and left to the base of the routes. For the Unknown 5.9, look for bolts heading up a blocky area on the face. The route, Lover's Leap, starts just to the right.
From Bob Brockwehl: Alternate Approach: I climbed at Lover's Leap on June 28 this year and the water level was low enough to use the approach described below. You can bring a short piece of rope to belay people across the creek if necessary (don't tie in for this, just hold on to a loop in the end of the rope).
From the parking area look directly across the creek to find a cleft in the trees on the opposite bank that marks a small tributary stream. Head for this spot (but do not go straight down hill as this will cause erosion). At this point there is a shallow pool that you can wade across. Go up the tributary for 10-20 yards and climb steeply up the left bank for about 20 feet (trail is faint here). This will bring you to an obvious trail leading downstream along the top of the steep creek bank. This trail will turn up hill and take you to the talus field below the crag.
Descent
Eds. Over the years, there have been a variety of descents used here. Some have descended to the right (which works, but can be tedious) or to the left (which also works). There have been fixed anchors left and now upgraded.
Per esbb: the rap stations are as follows: at the tree on top the start of the first rappel, there are brand new anchors, Metolius 1/2 inch as of 6-19-08, rappel towards the cross, and be on the lookout for the chains. This will be the 2nd rap station, follow the lay of the rock rap to the 3rd station also with chains then to the ground, you will be about 80 feet to the west of the base of the route. Remember ALWAYS KNOT THE END OF YOUR ROPE, and yes, it is a single rope rappel 60 meter rope required. NO SINGLE 50 METER WILL WORK. Always take into consideration others around you, and BE SAFE.
The rest of this description will be left to be updated to try to reflect the most recent changes.
Per esbb: the rap stations are as follows: at the tree on top the start of the first rappel, there are brand new anchors, Metolius 1/2 inch as of 6-19-08, rappel towards the cross, and be on the lookout for the chains. This will be the 2nd rap station, follow the lay of the rock rap to the 3rd station also with chains then to the ground, you will be about 80 feet to the west of the base of the route. Remember ALWAYS KNOT THE END OF YOUR ROPE, and yes, it is a single rope rappel 60 meter rope required. NO SINGLE 50 METER WILL WORK. Always take into consideration others around you, and BE SAFE.
The rest of this description will be left to be updated to try to reflect the most recent changes.
Classic Climbing Routes at Lover's Leap
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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