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Routes in Lover's Leap

It's a Bird! A Plane! T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lover's Leap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lover's Leap Arete T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Holds Barred T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Original Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rescue Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Something for Nothing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Thing, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unknown T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Where Tunas Flop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ye Olde Hysterical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: CMC climbers or US Army
Page Views: 3,252 total, 25/month
Shared By: John Simpson on Mar 5, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a route that was put up by either the US Army or CMC climbers around 1930 according to the book, "South Platte Rock Climbing" by Peter Hubbel and Mark Rolofson.

I climbed this route not too long ago, and it is a pretty good lead for a starting trad climber. Protection is easy to find, and the climbing is not very difficult. Just make sure that you stay on route, and don't venture too far off to the Southwest while on the face, if you head that way you can get onto some much harder routes. Overall, it is a good route with solid holds and good pro, and it is easy to retreat off of in the event that you need to. Once you get to the top descend the east face, or rap.

Per Wes B.: P1 - follow blocky ground up and left to a small tree (very dirty). Pass the tree on the left to reach a some slab climbing to a two bolt anchor (165').

P2 - follow slabby Flatiron-esque climbing to a notch where you encounter a short crux section (5.6) and belay at the top of the pitch (100').

Location

The route starts on the far northeast side of the face. You scramble up some easy 3rd class terrain past some bushes to a ledge where you start from. The climbing follows an obvious system of ledges and left and right facing corners. The second belay stance is on a ledge about half way up the climb. Once at the top you can probably find enough anchors to rappel down but if you don't want to take the time to set a rappel just walk down the north east ridge.

Per Wes B.: From the stream, ascend a steep slope and some talus to the low point of the rock. Follow a trail east for 100 yards to an "arete" (see photo). The route climbs the left side of this "arete".

Protection

Standard rack, some wider gear might not be a bad idea.

Descent

Head west along a well worn trail to a small tree to reach 2 half inch bolts.
Rick Blair
Denver
  5.6
Rick Blair   Denver
  5.6
I contacted one of the local SAR guys by email. He thinks the route I did was the actual original route making rangerdrew's beta photo the picture of the original start. He thinks Wes's route was a rescue route and the anchors he encountered were left over from a rescue on Ye Old Hysterical. I went to the AMC library to find some old beta to clear this up, I think I had the correct route, but either way there appears to be 2 distinct routes here. Oct 6, 2010
Rick Blair
Denver
  5.6
Rick Blair   Denver
  5.6
I loved this route more than the Lover's Leap Center route. Definitely two 5.6 cruxes on P1 and another on P2 IMO. This climb has an adventurous feel. P1 there was tons of lichen and moss, lots of loose rock, vegetation, rope drag, what's not to love? Surely I was off route... until I found the bolt hangers at the belay ledge. P2 I was wandering all over, I must have been off route... until I found the bolt hangers out on the slab belay. P3 was like the 3rd Flatiron to the top.

Maybe it was the great weather, but I am surprised this route gets overlooked. I would post better details on where the start is, but finding this route is part of the fun. Jun 20, 2010
Each pitch is relatively short. The first was 40m and the second 30m and the third maybe 35m. Solid bolt anchors that look new. Pitch 3 is reminiscent of the Flatirons. Very solid belay at the top of P3. Look for the ramp that moves up and right from the east side of the face for the start. Start at what looks like a ledge from the ground but is really a sloping feature. Jun 20, 2010
Marc Stuive
Parker, Co
 
Marc Stuive   Parker, Co
 
This route is a great introduction to multi-pitch lead climbing for the inexperienced climber. The area is nice and cool on a summer's day. Once you complete the easy original route, learned to swing lead, move on over to the Lover's Leap route. Great step up for a lead. Once that 5.7 is complete, you can plan to do the Lover's Leap with the alternate 5.9 start. A full summer's worth of lead learning and climbing! Mar 21, 2010