Avg: 1.7 from 7 votes
Routes in Lover's Leap
|It's a Bird! A Plane! T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Lover's Leap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Lover's Leap Arete T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|No Holds Barred T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Original Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Rescue Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Something for Nothing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Thing, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Unknown T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Where Tunas Flop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Ye Olde Hysterical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||CMC climbers or US Army|
|Page Views:||3,251 total, 25/month|
|Shared By:||John Simpson on Mar 5, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a route that was put up by either the US Army or CMC climbers around 1930 according to the book, "South Platte Rock Climbing" by Peter Hubbel and Mark Rolofson.
I climbed this route not too long ago, and it is a pretty good lead for a starting trad climber. Protection is easy to find, and the climbing is not very difficult. Just make sure that you stay on route, and don't venture too far off to the Southwest while on the face, if you head that way you can get onto some much harder routes. Overall, it is a good route with solid holds and good pro, and it is easy to retreat off of in the event that you need to. Once you get to the top descend the east face, or rap.
Per Wes B.: P1 - follow blocky ground up and left to a small tree (very dirty). Pass the tree on the left to reach a some slab climbing to a two bolt anchor (165').
P2 - follow slabby Flatiron-esque climbing to a notch where you encounter a short crux section (5.6) and belay at the top of the pitch (100').
LocationThe route starts on the far northeast side of the face. You scramble up some easy 3rd class terrain past some bushes to a ledge where you start from. The climbing follows an obvious system of ledges and left and right facing corners. The second belay stance is on a ledge about half way up the climb. Once at the top you can probably find enough anchors to rappel down but if you don't want to take the time to set a rappel just walk down the north east ridge.
Per Wes B.: From the stream, ascend a steep slope and some talus to the low point of the rock. Follow a trail east for 100 yards to an "arete" (see photo). The route climbs the left side of this "arete".