Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 32,619 total · 145/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Jan 11, 2002 with improvements by Dillon Blanksma
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fabulous route. I can't say enough good about it. After you have crossed the creek and struggled up through the woods and a talus slope, find the lowest point on the crag. It should be pretty obvious. At the top left corner of the talus slope is where you find it.

Pitch 1 - 5.6. Scramble up over broken terrain, aiming for a left facing dihedral and climb it to a small ledge at the base of a roof.

Pitch 2 - 5.7. Pull around the roof to the left and continue up a left facing dihedral. Belay at another ledge and roof in the dihedral system.

Pitch 3 - 5.6. Scramble to the left over easier terrain to reach the base of the final headwall.

Pitch 4 - 5.7. This is the icing on the cake! See the nice pretty crack going up the steep headwall? Well, get on it. A couple of stretched-out stemming and jamming moves lead to bomber jugs and the top.

Scramble west or climber's right working laterally and down, but not too soon. You can descend to either side of the rock buttress in front of you. To the right involves some down climbing, but is shorter. You should locate a fairly obvious path once you scramble down to the trees. It hugs fairly tight to the cliff as it winds its way back to the base of the cliff.

See "Colorado Front Range Crags" by Peter Hubbel as a reference. It is out of print.

Protection

A standard rack is used for this route. Nothing special is needed.

Descent

Per esbb: the rap stations are as follows: at the tree on top the start of the first rappel, there are brand new anchors, Metolius 1/2 inch as of 6-19-08, rappel towards the cross, and be on the lookout for the chains. This will be the 2nd rap station, follow the lay of the rock rap to the 3rd station also with chains then to the ground, you will be about 80 feet to the west of the base of the route. Remember ALWAYS KNOT THE END OF YOUR ROPE, and yes, it is a single rope rappel 60 meter rope required. NO SINGLE 50 METER WILL WORK. Always take into consideration others around you, and BE SAFE.

Per curt86iroc: there is an alternate walkoff (one of many options):once topped out, head S/SW past the first rap station, and start down the obvious gully and boulderfield. As you start to make your way down the boulders, look for several cairns guiding you around the base of the wall back towards the approach trail. After the boulders end, a short bushwhack leads to the trail, 20 minutes. 

Photos