Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,493 total · 16/month
Shared By: TBD on Sep 21, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

This is a great route in my opinion (all pitches).

Start about 20 feet left of the route Lover's Leap. Look for a blocky face with bolts.

P1: Follow the bolts up a steep slab. Turn a crux overhang (9+ or 10a) and continue up to a 2-bolt anchor. Great, 5.9++. You can place a blue Alien just before the crux bulge and a black Alien to protect the final moves to the anchor.

From here, you can traverse right and continue on the route Lover's Leap. Or else continue with the Unknown route if you are comfortable with runout climbing:

P2: Approximately 5 feet right of the belay is a shallow left-facing inside corner with a knifeblade below a bulge about 10 feet up. Ascend the corner to the pin, clip it for fun, and move up another foot or so to a stance and place some pro (possibly "s"). I was able to get a fairly good yellow Alien and a #4 Lowe Ball. Pull the bulge (approx. 5.8) to some easier well protected ground above. Climb to a large sloping ledge. At this ledge there are two terrible bolts and a good slung flake, this is an optional belay. Climb up the ledge to the left to a left facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral to a roof with good holds and a little loose rock, this is with no pro and about 40 foot run out (5.7 vs). Above the roof is some good pro and well protected 5.9 crack/ face climbing. Climb to the end of the crack and traverse right to a 3-bolt belay. Great, 5.9.

P3: You can easily traverse right to the finish of the standard route. Better yet, climb up and left on sparse protection to a large ledge. Above the ledge is a small roof, find a thin vertical seem, place some small gear, and pull up on to the steep face above. Ascend straight up the face past diagonal cracks for gear and a little lichen to the top. Fabulous finish, 5.8+.

Protection

The first pitch is bolted (8-9 bolts plus a blue and black Alien); the second and third are trad and runout.

Photos