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Routes in Lover's Leap

It's a Bird! A Plane! T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lover's Leap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lover's Leap Arete T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Holds Barred T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Original Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rescue Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Something for Nothing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Thing, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unknown T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Where Tunas Flop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ye Olde Hysterical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,370 total, 18/month
Shared By: David Stallman on Oct 22, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This routes leads up through the obvious, right-facing dihedral 3/4 up the rock on the left side, but it is spiked with awesome climbing along the way. There are some old 1/4" bolts along this route but no viable bolted belays.

P1. We started at a black streak 50 feet left of the prow of the rock, up a blocky start, did some gardening, and climbed an awesome hand traverse left over to a bunch of slings.

P2. Go straight up and tend leftward over to a ledge with old bolts and a bolt ladder up a face. Enjoy some awesome friction, and crush straight up the bolt line and pull a lip. Go 10 more feet and you've reached the base of the dihedral.

P3. Blast up this beautiful dihedral to the top, or a take an intermediate rest at a great belay ledge above it.

P4. This is for if you did not skip the optional belay ledge.

This route has awesome climbing on every pitch - it is not to be missed!

Location

This is on the left side of the cliff, walk to rap station when you get to the top.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

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Abram Herman
Grand Junction, CO
  5.10b PG13
Abram Herman   Grand Junction, CO
  5.10b PG13
This should definitely have a PG-13 rating. I'd hate to see someone get hurt on this climb.

Pitch 1: Chossy, crappy climbing. If I could skip this I would. Pretty run out in sections, and probably would've been worse without my offset cams, but easy 5.8ish climbing.

Pitch 2: 5.9 PG-13. Pretty easy movement, but as the previous commenter said, the protection is basically non-existent. I got a green C3 and 0.4 C4 equalized at the base that were pretty good, but a fall before the bolt (or on the bolt if it fails, which is very likely) would land you right on a bad ledge. The bolt and pin above the cam placements are crap.

Pitch 3: Awesome 5.10 dihedral! If the climb was just this pitch, I'd give it 4 stars, but the other pitches are kinda lame. Worth it, though, for this beautiful corner.

Definitely just run it right to the top after the dihedral; it wouldn't be worth doing a fourth pitch.

Overall, it was a great outing, but be ready to run it out or be on sketchy pro for most all of it except the third pitch. Jul 20, 2013
Furthermore
  5.10b PG13
Furthermore  
  5.10b PG13
The one bolt that can be used on the second pitch friction slab is sketchy. The pin above it isn't any better (I missed it on lead). If you were to take a fall, that bolt wouldn't hold and you would certainly deck on the ledge below.

Great climbing. Just needs to be cleaned up a bit. Jul 27, 2012