Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,147 total · 5/month
Shared By: TBD on Oct 18, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

P1. Start as for Lover's Leap. There are really two possible corner systems to start Lover's Leap, choose the one on the right. Climb up to an obvious small rectangular roof (approximately 3 feet x 2.5 feet), this is visible in the lower photo in the Lover's Leap area description. Climb out the right side of the roof, following a seam up and to the right. Continue up past discontinuous seams and face climbing to the ledge with the midway bolts for Lover's Leap, you'll finish directly below the obvious roof to the right of the bolts, 5.8.

P2. Hubbel's topo in Front Range Crags shows the route climbing up the crack at the right side of the roof. This was filled with vegetation, so we chose to climb up the left side of the roof (same as for No Holds Barred). Done this way, the climbing is a bit tricky and a tad run out until you can place [pro] under the roof, 5.9. I suggest climbing straight up under the roof to place pro and then traversing left to the features that allow passage around the roof. After surmounting the roof, we traversed right past a pin, that I believe marks the crack system for No Holds Barred, to an obvious, left-facing dihedral. We then climbed up the dihedral, 5.8. Hubbel's topo shows this as 10a R; however, it is not, and the gear is fine. The true route may perhaps lie farther to the right, rather than as shown in Hubbel's topo. The dihedral ends at a ledge. Climb straight up the face above the ledge on good holds towards a 4 inch slot in the left side of a bulge, 5.6 S. Until you reach the slot (4 inch cam), the only pro options are marginal RPs down low. Continue past the good cam unprotected until you reach a ledge, 5.4 S. At this ledge, there is a bolt to the climber's right. Either clip the bolt and continue up to finish, or belay for an optional short finish pitch.

P3. Set a belay at the good bolt, it is possible to place a red Alien about 5 feet left of the bolt to back it up. A few options exist, we chose to diagonal up and left, to the left-facing dihedral to the right of the finish crack of Lover's Leap. Follow a diagonal, chossy seam up and to the left, finding pro where you can. This line will take you under the large rock fin that marks the right side of the finish notch for Lover's Leap. Climb up to the left-facing dihedral formed by this fin and climb straight up, 5.9 S.

Protection Suggest change

A standard rack up to 4 inches and a few RPs.