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The Dunce Cap Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Dunce Cap

L › R R › L A › Z

	Dunce Cap, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Spirited Away T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Waltzing in the Wonderland T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

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Elevation:	4,076 ft	1,242 m
GPS:	34.06769, -116.14277 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	7,070 total · 25/month
Shared By:	Vernon Stiefel on Apr 8, 2003
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

The Dunce Cap is an impressive monolithic pluton in the eastern most reaches of the North Wonderland. The Dunce Cap (5.10c) is one of several recorded routes on this rock and potential for more FAs exists. The sheer north face, extending over 200' in height, consists of discontinuous cracks, extensive flake systems, a wide dihedral, and shallow depressions in undulating patterns. The southwest wall is only half as high as the north face but promising FAs are also present.

Getting There

One approach to this crag is to follow the North Wonderland Trail which begins at Key's Corner through washes to the Willow Hole. Continue east over small boulders through a narrow drainage that eventually connects with a broad north - south wash that meanders into Rattlesnake Canyon. The Dunce Cap is about 1/4 mile south of this point and easy to distinguish by a large right-leaning pillar on its northeast side.

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Dunce Cap

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R 6 ● The Dunce Cap Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 7 ● Spirited Away Trad 3 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 4 ● Waltzing in the Wonderland Trad