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Routes in The Dunce Cap

Dunce Cap, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Spirited Away T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Time Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waltzing in the Wonderland T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Description

The Dunce Cap is an impressive monolithic pluton in the eastern most reaches of the North Wonderland. The Dunce Cap (5.10c) is one of several recorded routes on this rock and potential for more FAs exists. The sheer north face, extending over 200' in height, consists of discontinuous cracks, extensive flake systems, a wide dihedral, and shallow depressions in undulating patterns. The southwest wall is only half as high as the north face but promising FAs are also present.

Getting There

One approach to this crag is to follow the North Wonderland Trail which begins at Key's Corner through washes to the Willow Hole. Continue east over small boulders through a narrow drainage that eventually connects with a broad north - south wash that meanders into Rattlesnake Canyon. The Dunce Cap is about 1/4 mile south of this point and easy to distinguish by a large right-leaning pillar on its northeast side.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Dunce Cap

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos

Has anyone else noticed the hueco filled with large bone shards on the summit? At first glance, I figured it was a raptor roost, but there is no poop anywhere. On further inspection, the bone pieces are quite large, so unlikely that a bird carried it up there. Methinks a bighorn sheep managed to summit the formation, and forgot his rope for the mandatory rappel, perishing on the summit. Wild. Nov 26, 2012

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