Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Dunce Cap

Dunce Cap, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Spirited Away T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Time Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waltzing in the Wonderland T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Vern Stiefel & Randy Vogel, 1992
Page Views: 754 total, 5/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The crux of this climb is in the first 10' so unless you are comfortable soloing 5.11 with potential to fall into a deep chasm, stick clip the first bolt. Technical underclinging and footwork gains a large edge. From here waltz up the dihedral with lieback and backstep moves (10+). A #0 TCU protects moves to the 2nd bolt.

Location

This deceptively difficult route ascends the shallow and low angle dihedral just right of Time Out. Approach via the V0 boulder problem to the large ledge. Rappel anchors are at the top.

Protection

Two bolts and #0 - #3 TCU's or equivalent. Rap anchors at the top.

Photos

Randy
  5.11b/c PG13
Randy  
  5.11b/c PG13
The initial bolt is quite high, so a rather long stick clip device is needed. After the crux at the bottom, the moves are continuous and satisfying. Mar 29, 2006