Elevation: 4,785 ft
GPS: 43.861, -103.442 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 122,788 total · 527/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jul 26, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

Description

Iron Mountain is a good place to go to escape crowds. There are several routes here (tend to be short), most of which are face climbing. Also, this is a good destination for fun granite bouldering. In fact, there is enough bouldering here to warrant leaving the rope at home. This is the second largest concentration of established granite bouldering in the Black Hills. Expect high quality granite problems that range from short to unrepeated your gonna die highballs. The well known climber, Bob Murray left his mark here with a few classic problems worth checking out.

Getting There

From Keystone, drive towards Mt. Rushmore on highway 16a. Take a left on 16a when the road junctions with 244. Measure from here, and drive 3.1 miles and park. This spot is where a non-major paved road intersects with the main highway on its right. This intersection is about 1/4 mile after driving through the second tunnel. There is no official parking, so just squeeze on the shoulder.

There are two major areas here. The first is a short jaunt across the road to the east. Find a trail that heads steeply up the hill and quickly arrive at Rubik's Ridge. Identify this by the overhanging schist at the bottom of the cliff.

The main area involves walking diagonally away from the intersection to the southwest on a faint trail. Although this trail is often difficult to follow, if you continue in that direction you will find the area. Head up a hill on to slabby rocks, then at the top you will get to a viewpoint where you can see Turtle Rock to the left. Turtle Rock can be identified by its large slabby 3rd class rock on its north side. Hike down to this to find the main rocks and bouldering.

232 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Iron Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 9
Jury of Peers
Boulder
V2 5+
 12
Hog Wild
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 7
Little Miss Piggy
Boulder
V5 6C
 6
Bob Murray Problem
Boulder
V5 6C PG13
 3
Lord Grizzly
Boulder
V7+ 7A+
 3
Grizzly Northface Right
Boulder
V8 7B
 4
Don't Crowd the Plow
Boulder
V9-10 7C+
 4
Spruce it Up
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 15
Seams Like a Dream
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 18
Carl's Bad Caverns
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 21
Middle of the Road
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 4
Paradise Lost
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Uff-Da-Hedral
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Lizard King Arete
Trad, Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 6
R.I.P. Diagonal
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jury of Peers Turtle Dome Bou… > Test Piece
 9
V2 5+ Boulder
Hog Wild 1st Pigtail Bri… > Hog Wall
 12
V2 5+ Boulder
Little Miss Piggy 1st Pigtail Bri… > Little Miss Piggy Bou…
 7
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
Bob Murray Problem Turtle Dome Bou… > Spokane Spike
 6
V5 6C Boulder
Lord Grizzly Grizzly Heights > Lord Grizzly Boulder
 3
V5 6C PG13 Boulder
Grizzly Northface Right Land Of The Way… > Grizzly Boulder
 3
V7+ 7A+ Boulder
Don't Crowd the Plow Turtle Dome Bou… > Overly Hung Boulder
 4
V8 7B Boulder
Spruce it Up Turtle Dome Bou… > Woodshop Boulder
 4
V9-10 7C+ Boulder
Seams Like a Dream New Domentions
 15
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Carl's Bad Caverns Raspberry Rocks > Weather Watchers Wall
 18
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Middle of the Road Raspberry Rocks > Weather Watchers Wall
 21
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Paradise Lost Raspberry Rocks > Weather Watchers Wall
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Uff-Da-Hedral Raspberry Rocks > Weather Watchers Wall
 6
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Lizard King Arete Raspberry Rocks > Weather Watchers Wall
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
R.I.P. Diagonal Raspberry Rocks > Weather Watchers Wall
 6
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
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