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Elevation: 9,500 ft
GPS: 37.48822, -107.52691
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 69,893 total · 372/month
Shared By: Jaaron Mankins on Oct 7, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

Vallecito Crags is a nice, little area with alpine feel. There are some quality quartzite routes from one pitch sport climbs to three pitch trad climbs. Sometimes it is nice to climb on something besides sandstone. This is a fairly secluded area, and seeing other climbers is not commonplace. Some of the climbing here is quite adventurous, and this would be a bad place to need a rescue. On the longer routes, be prepared for difficult route finding, run outs, and gear behind loose features as the quartzite can be quite flaky.

There is still a lot of potential here, but the main lines have been cleaned up and climbed. It is shady in the morning and super sunny all day.

Getting There Suggest change

Drive up Middle Mountain road a little ways past the 5 mile marker and park at switchback. The trail to start hiking down is a four wheeler trail and is marked as the Berry Park Trail. Drop right off of the Berry Park Trail almost immediately. Hike down ridgeline about 10-15 minutes to the topmost crag (Penthouse). It is a downhill hike on the way in and uphill on the way out.

These cliffs are easily visible from below near the Vallecito Creek Trailhead. To reach the larger cliffs of the High Times Wall and South Park, continue on the trail past the Penthouse to the south which takes you to the top anchors of the multi-pitch climbs.

Map: http://maps.google.com/?ll=37.479373,-107.536514&spn=0.00493,0.009645&hnear=Durango,+La+Plata,+Colorado&t=w&z=17.

67 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Vallecito Crags

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 14
Kivu Route
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 11
South Park The Movie
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Wilderness Therapy
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
14 Day Limit
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 18
Stabbin' the Cat
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Bolting for Jesus
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Party Barge
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
Shallow Hal
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
Chocolate Covered Razorblades
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 18
Pocket Rocket
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 13
Pontoon Boat
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Forgot My Sunglasses
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Centerfold
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 9
Catch & Release
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
The Green Mile
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kivu Route Penthouse
 14
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, TR
South Park The Movie S Park Slabs
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 3 pitches
Wilderness Therapy Lakeview
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
14 Day Limit Lakeview
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Stabbin' the Cat Penthouse
 18
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Bolting for Jesus Penthouse
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Party Barge Lakeview
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Shallow Hal Penthouse
 18
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Chocolate Covered Razorblades Lakeview
 11
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Pocket Rocket Penthouse
 18
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Pontoon Boat Lakeview
 13
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Forgot My Sunglasses Lakeview
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Centerfold Penthouse
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Catch & Release Lakeview
 9
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
The Green Mile High Times Wall
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Vallecito Crags »

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