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Vallecito Crags
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Dark Side, The 
High Times Wall 
Penthouse 
South Park Slabs 
Trundle Wall 
Vertical Wall 

Vallecito Crags 


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Elevation: 9,500'
Page Views: 19,334. Good page? (3 likes)   
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Manky on Oct 7, 2008

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High Times Wall.

Description 

A nice little area with alpine feel. Some quality quartzite routes from one pitch sport climbs to three pitch trad climbs. Sometimes it is nice to climb on something besides sandstone. This is a fairly secluded area, and seeing other climbers is not commonplace. Some of the climbing here is quite adventurous, and this would be a bad place to need a rescue. On the longer routes, be prepared for difficult route finding, run outs and gear behind loose features as the quartzite can be quite flaky. There is still a lot of potential here, but the main lines have been cleaned up and climbed. Shady in the morning, and super sunny all day.


Getting There 

Drive up Middle Mountain road a little ways past the 5 mile marker and park at switchback. Trail to start hiking down is a four wheeler trail and is marked as the Berry Park Trail. Drop right off of the Berry Park Trail almost immediately. Hike down ridgeline about 10-15 minutes to the topmost crag (Penthouse). Downhill hike on the way in, and uphill on the way out.

These cliffs are easily visible from below near the Vallecito Creek Trailhead. To reach the larger cliffs of the High Times Wall and South Park, countinue on the trail past the Penthouse to the south which takes you to the top anchors of the multi-pitch climbs.

Map: maps.google.com/?ll=37.479373,-107.536514&spn=0.00493,0.0096>>>.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Vallecito Crags:
South Park The Movie   5.8 R     Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   South Park Slabs
Dr. Greenthumb   5.8+     Trad, 2 pitches, 400 feet   High Times Wall
Oh My God, They Drilled Kenny!   5.8+ R     Trad, 2 pitches, 350 feet   South Park Slabs
Ride the Lightning   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Trundle Wall
Stabbin' the Cat   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Penthouse
Da Kine Line   5.10a     Trad, 3 pitches, 325 feet   High Times Wall
Clear Cut (AKA Nair Wolf)   5.10b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Vertical Wall
Shallow Hal   5.10     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Penthouse
Pocket Rocket   5.10+     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Penthouse
Trundlemaster   5.11-     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Trundle Wall
Centerfold   5.11a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Penthouse
High Times   5.11c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   High Times Wall
The Green Mile   5.11c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   High Times Wall
The Yardstik   5.11+     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Vertical Wall
Browse More Classics in Vallecito Crags

Featured Route For Vallecito Crags
Triple roofs indicating you're under the right route.

The Green Mile 5.11c  CO : Durango : ... : High Times Wall
Pitch one - Climb straight up through triple roofs to an anchor on large ledge. Fun climbing on good rock, a little dirty. 100', 5.9.Pitch two - Quite possibly the nicest piece of stone in the area. Using gear and quickdraws, ascend steep face to anchor. 100', 5.11c.Pitch three - Nondescript 5.8 to the top. 100'....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Vallecito Crags Slideshow Add Photo
Overview picture of the Vallecito crags. The penthouse is the top most cliff band and the multi-pitch slabs are on the right side. The Trundle Wall is hidden from view in the gully.

BETA PHOTO: Overview picture of the Vallecito crags. The penth...

Hey, want this too?  Base of Dr. Greenthumb-Dave Henritze.

Hey, want this too? Base of Dr. Greenthumb-Dave H...

Self medicating at the top of the High Times wall.

Self medicating at the top of the High Times wall.

Dan Wright at Vallicito.

Dan Wright at Vallicito.

The superb stone of the Penthouse.

The superb stone of the Penthouse.

Nick starting up South Park. The second pitch ends at the tree above his head at the skyline.

Nick starting up South Park. The second pitch ends...

Trundle Wall profile.

Trundle Wall profile.

Alex on some awesome steep face climbing on Vertical Wall.

Alex on some awesome steep face climbing on Vertic...

Past the crux. <br />The Yardstik (5.11+).

Past the crux.
The Yardstik (5.11+).


-Courtesy of National Geographic Maps- <br /> <br /><a href='http://www.natgeomaps.com/ti_140_zoomify.html?zoomifyImagePath=assets/files/zoomify/ti00000140/ti00000140_3_img&zoomifyNavigatorVisible=false' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.natgeomaps.com/ti_140_zoomify.html?zoomifyImagePath=asse>>></a>

BETA PHOTO: -Courtesy of National Geographic Maps-

www...


Based on approach descriptions, I've found these to be the locations of the crags. Please correct me if I'm wrong!

BETA PHOTO: Based on approach descriptions, I've found these t...

Main single pitch crags.  Penthouse is primarily sport, Trundle Wall is mixed.  Walk under Penthouse and follow cairns to all indicated walls.

BETA PHOTO: Main single pitch crags. Penthouse is primarily s...


Comments on Vallecito Crags Add Comment
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By bmo
From: durango, co
Dec 13, 2011

The directions could use a little more description, you branch off the Berry Park Trail almost immediately, we missed it due to lots of leaves on the ground and wandered around in the woods for a while.

By Dylan Weldin
From: Durango, CO
Apr 18, 2012

Google map link directly to the talus field below the wall: maps.google.com/?ll=37.479373,-107.536514&spn=0.00493,0.0096>>>.

I'm heading up there this weekend for my first time and will report back with photos/ driving directions/ approach instructions.

By ozman
From: CO / NM
May 7, 2012

Jump off of the Berry ATV trail after about 150 feet onto a footpath on the right. It's a nice trail down the ridgeline. Somebody put nice cairns all the way to the vertical wall. It helps funnel traffic on a trail and keeps people from getting lost. Thanks.

This area is great.

By Dylan Weldin
From: Durango, CO
Oct 9, 2012

Fort Lewis College Climbing Club put cairns in last spring. If you park at the right switchback, you shouldn't be able to miss the approach. Enjoy!

High Times cairn.
High Times cairn.
Submitted By: Dylan Weldin on Oct 9, 2012


The trail begins here and almost immediately cuts right following the ridge line.
The trail begins here and almost immediately cuts right following the ridge line.
Submitted By: Dylan Weldin on Oct 9, 2012