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DescriptionA nice little area with alpine feel. Some quality quartzite routes from one pitch sport climbs to three pitch trad climbs. Sometimes it is nice to climb on something besides sandstone. This is a fairly secluded area, and seeing other climbers is not commonplace. Some of the climbing here is quite adventurous, and this would be a bad place to need a rescue. On the longer routes, be prepared for difficult route finding, run outs and gear behind loose features as the quartzite can be quite flaky. There is still a lot of potential here, but the main lines have been cleaned up and climbed. Shady in the morning, and super sunny all day. Getting ThereDrive up Middle Mountain road a little ways past the 5 mile marker and park at switchback. Trail to start hiking down is a four wheeler trail and is marked as the Berry Park Trail. Drop right off of the Berry Park Trail almost immediately. Hike down ridgeline about 10-15 minutes to the topmost crag (Penthouse). Downhill hike on the way in, and uphill on the way out. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Vallecito Crags:
South Park The Movie 5.8 R Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II South Park Slabs
Dr. Greenthumb 5.8+ Trad, 2 pitches, 400 feet High Times Wall
Oh My God, They Drilled Kenny! 5.8+ R Trad, 2 pitches, 350 feet South Park Slabs
Ride the Lightning 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Trundle Wall
Stabbin' the Cat 5.9+ Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Penthouse
Da Kine Line 5.10a Trad, 3 pitches, 325 feet High Times Wall
Clear Cut (AKA Nair Wolf) 5.10b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet Vertical Wall
Shallow Hal 5.10 Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Penthouse
Pocket Rocket 5.10+ Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Penthouse
Trundlemaster 5.11- Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Trundle Wall
Centerfold 5.11a/b Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Penthouse
High Times 5.11c Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet High Times Wall
The Green Mile 5.11c Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet High Times Wall
The Yardstik 5.11+ Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet Vertical Wall
Featured Route For Vallecito Crags
The Green Mile 5.11c CO : Durango : ... : High Times Wall
Pitch one - Climb straight up through triple roofs to an anchor on large ledge. Fun climbing on good rock, a little dirty. 100', 5.9.Pitch two - Quite possibly the nicest piece of stone in the area. Using gear and quickdraws, ascend steep face to anchor. 100', 5.11c.Pitch three - Nondescript 5.8 to the top. 100'....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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