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Vallecito Crags

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Dark Side, The 
High Times Wall 
Penthouse 
South Park Slabs 
Trundle Wall 
Vertical Wall 

Vallecito Crags Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 9,500'
Page Views: 12,019
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jaaron Mankins on Oct 7, 2008
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Description 

Vallecito Crags is a nice, little area with alpine feel. There are some quality quartzite routes from one pitch sport climbs to three pitch trad climbs. Sometimes it is nice to climb on something besides sandstone. This is a fairly secluded area, and seeing other climbers is not commonplace. Some of the climbing here is quite adventurous, and this would be a bad place to need a rescue. On the longer routes, be prepared for difficult route finding, run outs, and gear behind loose features as the quartzite can be quite flaky.

There is still a lot of potential here, but the main lines have been cleaned up and climbed. It is shady in the morning and super sunny all day.

Getting There 

Drive up Middle Mountain road a little ways past the 5 mile marker and park at switchback. The trail to start hiking down is a four wheeler trail and is marked as the Berry Park Trail. Drop right off of the Berry Park Trail almost immediately. Hike down ridgeline about 10-15 minutes to the topmost crag (Penthouse). It is a downhill hike on the way in and uphill on the way out.

These cliffs are easily visible from below near the Vallecito Creek Trailhead. To reach the larger cliffs of the High Times Wall and South Park, continue on the trail past the Penthouse to the south which takes you to the top anchors of the multi-pitch climbs.

Map: maps.google.com/?ll=37.479373,....

Climbing Season

For the Durango area.

Weather station 1.1 miles from here

24 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',5],['5.9',3],['5.10',6],['5.11',7],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Vallecito Crags

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Vallecito Crags:
South Park The Movie   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   South Park Slabs
Shallow Hal   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Penthouse
Pocket Rocket   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Penthouse
Centerfold   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Penthouse
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Vallecito Crags

Featured Route For Vallecito Crags
Rock Climbing Photo: Triple roofs indicating you're under the right rou...

The Green Mile 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  CO : Durango : ... : High Times Wall
Pitch one - Climb straight up through triple roofs to an anchor on large ledge. Fun climbing on good rock, a little dirty. 100', 5.9.Pitch two - Quite possibly the nicest piece of stone in the area. Using gear and quickdraws, ascend steep face to anchor. 100', 5.11c.Pitch three - Nondescript 5.8 to the top. 100'....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Vallecito Crags Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Self medicating at the top of the High Times wall.
Self medicating at the top of the High Times wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: Past the crux. The Yardstik (5.11+).
Past the crux. The Yardstik (5.11+).
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan Wright at Vallicito.
Dan Wright at Vallicito.
Rock Climbing Photo: Main single pitch crags.  Penthouse is primarily s...
BETA PHOTO: Main single pitch crags. Penthouse is primarily s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hey, want this too?  Base of Dr. Greenthumb-Dave H...
Hey, want this too? Base of Dr. Greenthumb-Dave H...
Rock Climbing Photo: High Times Wall.
High Times Wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick starting up South Park. The second pitch ends...
Nick starting up South Park. The second pitch ends...
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview picture of the Vallecito crags. The penth...
BETA PHOTO: Overview picture of the Vallecito crags. The penth...
Rock Climbing Photo: Vallecito Crags.
Vallecito Crags.
Rock Climbing Photo: Based on approach descriptions, I've found these t...
BETA PHOTO: Based on approach descriptions, I've found these t...
Rock Climbing Photo: The superb stone of the Penthouse.
The superb stone of the Penthouse.
Rock Climbing Photo: -Courtesy of National Geographic Maps-  natgeomaps...
BETA PHOTO: -Courtesy of National Geographic Maps- natgeomaps...
Rock Climbing Photo: Trundle Wall profile.
Trundle Wall profile.

Comments on Vallecito Crags Add Comment
Show which comments
By bmo
From: durango, co
Dec 13, 2011
The directions could use a little more description, you branch off the Berry Park Trail almost immediately, we missed it due to lots of leaves on the ground and wandered around in the woods for a while.
By Dylan Weldin
From: Athens, OH
Apr 18, 2012
Google map link directly to the talus field below the wall: maps.google.com/?ll=37.479373,....

I'm heading up there this weekend for my first time and will report back with photos/ driving directions/ approach instructions.
By ozman
From: CO / NM
May 7, 2012
Jump off of the Berry ATV trail after about 150 feet onto a footpath on the right. It's a nice trail down the ridgeline. Somebody put nice cairns all the way to the vertical wall. It helps funnel traffic on a trail and keeps people from getting lost. Thanks.

This area is great.
By Dylan Weldin
From: Athens, OH
Oct 9, 2012
Fort Lewis College Climbing Club put cairns in last spring. If you park at the right switchback, you shouldn't be able to miss the approach. Enjoy!

Rock Climbing Photo: High Times cairn.
High Times cairn.


Rock Climbing Photo: The trail begins here and almost immediately cuts ...
The trail begins here and almost immediately cuts right following the ridge line.
By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
Jun 17, 2014
It's cool that these are bolted into real routes now. I remember doing these in the early 1980s. John Duran and friends had done a bunch of climbing on this wall previous to taking me there. It's funny how having bolts to follow somehow makes the climbing better. We used to just look for the cleanest line and avoid making climbing into easy territory. Of course, we were into big runouts at that time, so no bolts was a plus.
By Chris Eagan
May 22, 2015
I think it's worth noting that most of the Penthouse climbs are in fact quite easily toproped and being shorter in nature are actually quite fun to solo toprope. Cheers

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