A nice little area with alpine feel. Some quality quartzite routes from one pitch sport climbs to three pitch trad climbs. Sometimes it is nice to climb on something besides sandstone. This is a fairly secluded area, and seeing other climbers is not commonplace. Some of the climbing here is quite adventurous, and this would be a bad place to need a rescue. On the longer routes, be prepared for difficult route finding, run outs and gear behind loose features as the quartzite can be quite flaky. There is still a lot of potential here, but the main lines have been cleaned up and climbed. Shady in the morning, and super sunny all day.
Drive up Middle Mountain road a little ways past the 5 mile marker and park at switchback. Trail to start hiking down is a four wheeler trail and is marked as the Berry Park Trail. Drop right off of the Berry Park Trail almost immediately. Hike down ridgeline about 10-15 minutes to the topmost crag (Penthouse). Downhill hike on the way in, and uphill on the way out.
These cliffs are easily visible from below near the Vallecito Creek Trailhead. To reach the larger cliffs of the High Times Wall and South Park, countinue on the trail past the Penthouse to the south which takes you to the top anchors of the multi-pitch climbs.
Climb up the middle of the black streak past difficult moves to better holds in a groove. Go up this to the roof, move slighly right for pro, then climb up left on easier moves (5.9) to the top. Use the chains of Clear Cut to descend....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
The directions could use a little more description, you branch off the Berry Park Trail almost immediately, we missed it due to lots of leaves on the ground and wandered around in the woods for a while.
Jump off of the Berry ATV trail after about 150 feet onto a footpath on the right. It's a nice trail down the ridgeline. Somebody put nice cairns all the way to the vertical wall. It helps funnel traffic on a trail and keeps people from getting lost. Thanks.
It's cool that these are bolted into real routes now. I remember doing these in the early 1980s. John Duran and friends had done a bunch of climbing on this wall previous to taking me there. It's funny how having bolts to follow somehow makes the climbing better. We used to just look for the cleanest line and avoid making climbing into easy territory. Of course, we were into big runouts at that time, so no bolts was a plus.