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Church Bowl
Routes Sorted
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Aunt Fanny's Pantry 
Bishop's Balcony 
Bishops Terrace 
Bitches' Terror 
Black is Brown 
Book of Revelation 
Church Bowl Chimney 
Church Bowl Lieback 
Church Bowl Terrace 
Church Bowl Tree 
Deja Thorus 
Energizer 
Haley's Little Warm-up 
Jacob's Ladder 
More Balls Than Brains 
Parkay Squeeze 
Pole Position 
Revival 
Shomer Shabbat 
Tammy Fae 
Uncle Fanny 
Walk On the Water 

Uncle Fanny 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bruce Price, Michael McLean, 1/70.
Page Views: 1,744
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 17, 2006
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Description 

Follow the low-angle chimney to the left of "Church Bowl Lieback". Continue up 5.7 at the chimney's end.
This is a good route for learning basic chimney technique.
Rappel.


Protection 

Pro to 3".



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Uncle Fanny from ground level.
Uncle Fanny from ground level.
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By craig512
From: Nor-Cal
Oct 9, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This is a heck of a squeeze job even for being super skinny like me. Best bet was to keep my right side facing the chimney and inching up from there. If nobody is on the Lieback, go that route instead.

By Linnea Williams
Oct 27, 2008

I agree. This was the most brutal and unnecessary 5.7 ever.

By Osprey
From: ...
Dec 30, 2009

Even Don Reid warns about Yosemite being a valley of demanding cracks. I think he saved it for the topo of this pitch. The fact is that it has smooth granite with perfect chimney/squeeze/offwidth moves. You can take a no hands rest after every move on the bottom of this climb. Just look at the picture and you will see the solid foot-to-knee jams for the outside leg. Also, look at the perfect elbo-to-palm jam for the outside arm. You can get this jam on the inside as well. Just make sure the elbo is above the palm. You can really move off this jam exclusively while resting on the knee-to-foot. Do this one left side in, and remember to only move a couple of inches at a time. After practicing your technique, the hardest part will be picking the leaves out of the hand jams on the top half of the pitch. Enjoy!!!

By Floyd Hayes
Aug 2, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

After grunting through the first squeeze chimney and nearly getting stuck (I'm 5'10"; right shoulder in worked best), I stepped right onto the face and found the face/crack climbing to the right of the gully MUCH more enjoyable and well protected. If you plan to lead up through the gully without running it out, it looks like you'll need an ample arsenal of 1-2" gear, more than I had available.

By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Dec 14, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Easier than the 5.7 OW on Crescent Crack in Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT, with better pro too! Awkward enough to get you working, but once you figure out a ratcheting sequence, it's not too bad and never insecure. I spent more time deciding which side to put in than on figuring out any later moves (ultimately I chose left-side in).

By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
May 18, 2011

Interesting climb... I had a hard time doing standard chimney moves since I'm 6'2".... Lot's of heal-toe & chicken wing moves for me. Great climb to work on this technique. It's a lot easier if you're harness is not full of gear (like most tight climbs)

By Rodger Raubach
Sep 11, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

BITD when I climbed this route, I did something similar to Floyd Hayes and abandoned the chimbey for some pleasant crack and flake climbing to the right. It's much nicer that way! I was able to use entirely passive pro as well. The chimney is a real grunt.

By Laine
From: Reno, NV
Oct 11, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

If you are looking for sweet chimney action, do not abandon the chimney. A hand crack in the back and some heel-toeing will get you up to the final finger crack in no time. Very protectable as far as chimneys are concerned.