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Routes in Church Bowl

700 Club S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aunt Fanny's Pantry T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bishop's Balcony A1 PG13
Bishops Terrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bitches' Terror T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black is Brown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Book of Revelation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Church Bowl Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Church Bowl Lieback T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Church Bowl Terrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Church Bowl Tree T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deja Thorus T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energizer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Haley's Little Warm-up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jacob's Ladder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
More Balls Than Brains TR A3 PG13
No Rest For The Wicked T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oral Roberts S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Parkay Squeeze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3
Pole Position S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Revival T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shomer Shabbat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tammy Fae T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Uncle Fanny T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walk On the Water S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Gordon Webster, Chuck Ostin, 10/1965 FFA: Bob Finn, Chris Falkenstein, 1974
Page Views: 2,358 total, 18/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Feb 2, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is the right leaning crack, that is 40' left of Church Bowl Tree. Crux is pulling a blocky bulge 12' off the ground, and getting established in the crack on awkward tight hands with poor feet. Continue up the crack, which gets easier. You'll get to an old fixed pin, which is easily backed up, then you get a fun and thrilling airy traverse right, great feet on a dike, but no hands. balancy! At the end of the traverse, you'll hit a vertical crack with great fingerlocks in pin scars, then a final easy traverse right to a small slung tree. Rap off.

This route continues up a few more pitches at a guidebook .11a, but I haven't done them.

Location

40' left of Church Bowl Tree, obvious 45 degree right slanting crack/book.

Protection

Gear to 2". Offset gear very helpful in pin scars, I used the two larger hybrid aliens on this climb.

Photos

King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
Good thuggy route that gets hard if you try and force things. Careful tight hands is the ticket IIRC. 2nd pitch is 11a fingers (decent climbing) then the climbing after that becomes a little less interesting (nothing I can remember). Worth doing though. Jul 7, 2016
nathanael
Riverside, CA
 
nathanael   Riverside, CA
 
4 star 11a in the Supertopo book. Not sure if it's either of those, but it's pretty good climbing. Good gear all the way up and some cool and interesting moves pulling the bulge and then balancing up the rest of the climb. No pin but no need for one either. Jun 5, 2016
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
The second pitch is alright, but not as good as the first. It's got some cool moves switching cracks and then some finger-jamming after that. It gets dirtier after the first set of anchor bolts about 45 ft up. Jan 15, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I only climbed the first pitch of this route on September 11th of 2010, and I didn't notice a fixed piton. I'm pretty sure it's gone. The bottom crux is pretty awkward, but the rest of the pitch climbs quite well, and takes good gear to boot. In my opinion, there are tons of good rests between the crux and the top. Just make sure your calves are in shape... Sep 13, 2010
Colby Wayment
Ogden, UT
Colby Wayment   Ogden, UT
I'm pretty sure there is a second pitch (at least) to this, above the tree, and it goes at 5.11-. Haven't climbed that second pitch, but it looks thin. Jul 20, 2010