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Routes in Church Bowl

700 Club S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aunt Fanny's Pantry T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bishop's Balcony A1 PG13
Bishops Terrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bitches' Terror T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black is Brown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Book of Revelation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Church Bowl Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Church Bowl Lieback T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Church Bowl Terrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Church Bowl Tree T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deja Thorus T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energizer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Haley's Little Warm-up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jacob's Ladder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
More Balls Than Brains TR A3 PG13
No Rest For The Wicked T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oral Roberts S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Parkay Squeeze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3
Pole Position S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Revival T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shomer Shabbat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tammy Fae T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Uncle Fanny T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walk On the Water S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mark Jefferson, Dave Collins, 1970
Page Views: 6,398 total · 48/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Feb 1, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The technnical crux is down low (getting of the ground) in a polished groove. Nice finger jamming follows with a balancy sequence to gain the bolt belay.

There is a second pitch but this isn't often done.

Protection

small nuts and cams, bolt anchor
Mike O'Mara  
 
Slippery in August. Crux was getting off the ground. Clipping the chains off the slopey rail was insecure, but you can plug a blue tcu in the last or second to last pin scar at your waist from the clipping stance. Sep 17, 2015
Max Rausch
Monterey, California
Max Rausch   Monterey, California
As already stated, like 10 times above. This shit is SLICK. First 10 feet were the worst. I found it a great introduction to climbing pin scars. Offset cams worked great. I also felt that the last 10 feet of pin scared fingers were the hardest. Jul 9, 2015
Dr Williams
AUSTIN, TX
  5.10b/c PG13
Dr Williams   AUSTIN, TX
  5.10b/c PG13
Very polished. In fact it is right in front of the Church Bowl bench. So it sees a bunch of traffic. Great single pitch to see if you are really ready for 5.10 in the valley. Aug 11, 2014
NorCalNomad
San Francisco
 
NorCalNomad   San Francisco
 
Yeah def felt most sketched clipping the chains, first few moves were polished feet but low enough that you could jump down and not mess yourself up.

Wish I would have spent a longer rest before the second 1/2. Aug 25, 2013
Nick Zmyewski
Newark, Delaware
  5.10a
Nick Zmyewski   Newark, Delaware
  5.10a
greasiest route in the valley Aug 24, 2013
The first ascender was Mike Jefferson, not Mark! May 4, 2013
Justin Skaare
Boulder, CO
 
Justin Skaare   Boulder, CO
 
This was my first valley lead, first ever trad lead over 5.10, and 3rd climb ever in the valley. Stupid. It does take pretty solid gear though, and I definitely zipped it up. Getting off the ground was not nearly as tough as clipping the bolts. Apr 13, 2013
Robbie Brown
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Robbie Brown   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Great aid practice! Fun to free also but only if you like them manufactured. Pin scarred to shit! Mar 26, 2013
TacoDelRio
All up in yo bidniss.
 
TacoDelRio   All up in yo bidniss.
 
P2 if done as aid is an alternating bolt and rivet ladder, with a reach right to the tree. Buncha slings on them with three aluminium rings, in good condition as of 20130205.

Rivets have wing nuts on them so they feel super safe. Feb 5, 2013
BrianWS
  5.10b
BrianWS  
  5.10b
Only climbed P1.
Slick down low, but with killer fingerlocks and the occasional jam. The friction improves as the route progresses. The crux seemed to be clipping the chains. Jan 28, 2013
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Imagine sliding across a hardwood floor in woolen socks! Your feet are more harm then good! Excellent route nonetheless. My first .10 in the valley, totally worth it!! Oct 25, 2012
mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.10b
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.10b
Thought this route was a little hard even at 10b only going to the first chains, which is rated 10a. We did do it on a hot and humid August day, so that may account for some of the percieved additional difficulty. Hardest move I thought was getting a stance while holding the sloper on top in order to clip the chains. Fun route. Jun 19, 2012
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
Although a little above my general range, I felt this was really hard for the grade as a lead. Assess your needed pro ahead of time as placement positions are generally pumpy, and top anchors are just hanging from the mostly-blank face with no rest position to clip them.

The start is damned-near impossible if the rock isn't bone dry (it wasn't visibly wet in April when we climbed, but the friction feet weren't sticking either).

My partner was stoked to TR this one, but it's a lead I was glad to be done with. Apr 24, 2012
Ty Harlacker
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10b
Ty Harlacker   Albuquerque, NM
  5.10b
I can't help but wonder how polished it's going to be in 40 more years. Oct 14, 2010
Per Dave Collins, Tom Rohr climbed to where the chains are now at prior to 1970. Dave and Mark Jefferson nailed up to that spot, tension traversed to the left, and used nuts to reach the ledge above. This was done the day the Yosemite riot of 1970 started!

Check out Farretlegger's (the 11th) post on Barry Bate's thread about the day the riots started:

supertopo.com/climbers-foru…

FFA: unknown, by 1982 Jul 4, 2010
AWinters   NH  
"greasiest route in the valley" Jun 9, 2010
Grease is the way we are feelin' Jan 28, 2010
Alpine Carl  
 
For the true Church Bowl Tree Experience, traverse left on small edges below the chains and ascend the arching, left to right crack to the ledge with said "Tree" and an anchor. It is possible to clip the chains before starting the traverse; this would probably afford a little better protection than the infamous nut placements at the top of the "first pitch." Jan 2, 2008
Mike
Phoenix
Mike   Phoenix
George and Bob, you are both correct. Not that technically hard, but greasy for sure. Nov 14, 2007
Is this the climb that feels like the previous 6,923 ascents were made by people with pepperoni grease running down their fingers? Feb 2, 2007
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Is this the climb that begins right behind an old bench? Or am I thinking of something else? Feb 2, 2007
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10a
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10a
This is a great climb to break into valley .10. There is a second crux right at the very end. Also, be sure to sling your nuts on this one, I saw a leader take a fall going for the chains. Top piece held, but the zipper popped two nuts below that. yikes. Also, this is just .10a to get to the first anchor, which is what most people do. Feb 2, 2007