Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Unknown, by 1987
Page Views: 7,469 total · 50/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Oct 11, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


follows low angle thin crack to the right of Uncle Fanny. Some 4th class to get to start. Lieback the whole way. Gets real thin in spots. Easily lead with just a set of nuts. Hold them up and it will suck one in almost anywhere.


Cams .3"-1" Can be done with a set of nuts


Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
This is a short, but surprisingly fun lieback. You can TR the 5.7 chimney/crack to the left form the same anchors, which is a much less aesthetic route - but good for your groveling work. Oct 24, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
A single rope rap (100') with a little bit of easy downclimbing gets you back to the ground. Jun 15, 2007
FA: unknown, by 1987 Jan 21, 2012
Eric "Pig" Varley
Nipomo, CA
Eric "Pig" Varley   Nipomo, CA
Very fun route with straight forward lieback climbing. If leading it on nuts, bringing a few extra medium (finger) sized nuts would be ideal. I was on a set of BD nuts and only had the smallest 2 and largest 2 left over at the end of the route. I also brought some small cams (C3 #0-#2), which came in handy after I accidentally kicked a piece out while firing the crux. Apr 8, 2014
Be sure to inspect the tat at the top. At the time of this writing, the upper tree cluster had a hollow rap ring that was worn through and sharp as a blade. The lower-left tree had good tat but one of the rap rings was 3/4 worn through. A 70m rope gets you down from the bottom station, but might not get you there from the top. Jun 10, 2014
Pavel Burov
Pavel Burov   Russia
A good route to learn nuts. Bring one or two small .5" to .6" (purple to blue Metolius, blue to green Alien, green to red BD C3, yellow to blue BD X4, etc) cams for a backup in a case you don't feel your nut placements are not 100% solid. Please consider to have a lot of QDs when placing lot of nuts.

To TR/rappel the route you want to have a 70m rope.

Have fun! Oct 14, 2014
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
Witnessed an accident a couple weeks ago - belayer lowered their friend of the end of the rope and they claimed to have a 65 meter rope. Supertopo makes it seem like you can do it with a 60 meter rope but you can't. Even a 70 won't make it, depending on what tree you anchor off of. Tie knots. Pay attention. Oct 18, 2016
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
led up to rap slings presently on tree at left side of topout ledge. extended with a long cordelette to lower anchor master point by about 6 ft. got lowered all the way down to flat ground with a 70, with about 8 ft to spare, with some zigzags on the lead side. TR belayed follower from the ground. afterward, she rapped down to flat ground with about 10 ft to spare on each strand. as mentioned above, depending on the amount of zigzags on the lead, a 70 without anchor extension might not be long enough to lower leader back to flat ground. should reach easy low ledges tho. knot the end and be careful Mar 14, 2017
Herm Harrison
Bishop, CA
Herm Harrison   Bishop, CA
When I showed up in '88, someone told me this was called "Flyin' Hawaiian." One of the best routes on this section of cliff. Jan 10, 2019