Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Mark Carpenter and Jeff Hornibrook (late 80's)
Page Views: 797 total · 9/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Oct 7, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This climb starts just below and right of where a broken tree touches the wall. It's between Aunt Fanny's Pantry and Book of Revelations. It doesn't get climbed much so there's lots of lichen on the first 40 feet.

Climb up to the first bolt and then make a reachy move (5.10) to gain a hueco. From the hueco clip a second bolt and then climb up and left. This section is the crux and I couldn't figure out how to do it without using the tree. After the tree climb up a nice low angle face that's mostly 5.7-5.9, past a couple more bolts. Finish up the right side of a flake to a bolted anchor with chains.

Protection

4 bolts and a light rack for the top.

I placed one 0.5" piece and one 3" piece.

Photos

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Max Rausch
Portland, OR
 
Max Rausch   Portland, OR
 
Start moves were fun and intricate. Took me a few tries to stick the hueco. After that, the mantel onto the slopers I found really hard. The top section had thick moss, and the run out to the next bolt did't feel safe enough, so I pulled my draws and down climbed. Jul 9, 2015
phylp
Upland
 
phylp   Upland
 
I did this one a while ago and enjoyed it. Sounds like it has gotten more vegetated which is too bad. For some reason I thought this was a bolts only route and didn't take any gear. That was rather exciting. I recommend taking a light rack. Nov 27, 2017