Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Mark Carpenter and Jeff Hornibrook (late 80's)
Page Views: 1,634 total · 12/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Oct 7, 2011
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

This climb starts just below and right of where a broken tree touches the wall. It's between Aunt Fanny's Pantry and Book of Revelations. It doesn't get climbed much so there's lots of lichen on the first 40 feet.

Climb up to the first bolt and then make a reachy move (5.10) to gain a hueco. From the hueco clip a second bolt and then climb up and left. This section is the crux and I couldn't figure out how to do it without using the tree. After the tree climb up a nice low angle face that's mostly 5.7-5.9, past a couple more bolts. Finish up the right side of a flake to a bolted anchor with chains.

Protection

5 bolts and a light rack for the top.

I placed one 0.5" piece and one 3" piece.

Photos

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