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A Piece of Work 
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Right of Lieback 
Shaft, The 
Texas Finger Crack 
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The Shaft 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chuck Grossman
Page Views: 2,189
Submitted By: mtoensing on Sep 13, 2008
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Entrance to the cave route.

Description 

Climb up the first 10 feet to the bird shit ledge. Then start the finger and thin hands crack. Watch out for a loose flake. Then the crack opens to perfect hands for a while then hits a lower angle part with a lot more bird shit everywhere.


Location 

This is at the entrance of cave in the shaded area.


Protection 

#0.5-#4 Cams. 2 bolt anchor at the top.



Photos of The Shaft Slideshow Add Photo
This may be bird shit ledge?
This may be bird shit ledge?
Cave route getting extra credit for the 'kewl' factor!
Cave route getting extra credit for the 'kewl' fac...
Looking down the "Cave Route", the belayer can barely be seen on the edge sun light/shade.
Looking down the "Cave Route", the belayer can bar...
Rapping back down the cave route.
Rapping back down the cave route.
Comments on The Shaft Add Comment
Show which comments
By Greg Sievers
From: Estes Park, CO
May 8, 2009

A good quality route, in a really unique setting, with much of the climbing being in the 5.9+ range. In other words: not nearly as difficult as the Key Hole route.

By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Oct 28, 2010

I agree that Keyhole was way harder. I barely got pumped on this thing, and Keyhole pretty well kicked my butt.

By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Oct 29, 2010

Still a great route with a sweet setting. Also, the poop was pretty much all gone. Still pretty dirty up top though.

By Brad Winters
Oct 8, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Oops, big mistake here. Seems like this one was done long ago by a hard man named Chuck Grossman as they noted two routes in the cave. Sorry Chuck. I will try to get down there and remove these bolts next time I am in CO and patch the holes with sandy epoxy. This might be a while so anyone else who feels like it can do the same as long as they don't make a mess out of it. These guys frowned upon unnecessary anchors being installed and chose to leave no trace by going all the way to the top. This is admirable. Intermediate anchors are common in the desert now because people just like cragging at these areas, and most of the good climbing is on the first pitches and also because of the sometimes dangerous conditions (for persons climbing and to those below) near the top of the cliffs. Still, should have been more careful. Don't let this happen to you, get the 1988 guide from someone before doing any "pioneering." Yay for mountain project! I wish it was around earlier.

By george wilkey
From: travelers rest sc
Jun 15, 2013

This is a really fun route, a great place to practice cracks and liebacks, plus you can climb here when it's pouring rain. Don't pull the anchors.