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Routes in Interiors Wall Area

A Piece of Work T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bigger Than She Looks T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Briar's Birth T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Everything in Between Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Eye for an Eye T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fondon't T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Interiors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Key Hole T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Make The Grade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Not Like Any Other Desert Splitter (Left Dihedral?) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pinball Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Pony Express aka Bunny Ramp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Right of Lieback T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shaft, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Texas Finger Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown II T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown III T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,285 total · 49/month
Shared By: Jared Spaulding on Nov 4, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a short, splitter, hand crack. Make a few finger moves between pods at the bottom with a short traverse left before climbing straight up thin hands to hands (crux) to a two bolt anchor with chains.

Location

This route is located to the left of the Bunny Ramp route by about 100 yards. It is an obvious splitter in white rock that is visible from the parking area.

Protection

#3 TCU up through #2 Camalot. I used 2 #0.75 Camalots and 2 #3 TCUs, as well as the other recommended gear.
Joshh
Denver, CO
Joshh   Denver, CO
This was a great route...similar crack size progression as Scarface in Indian Creek. That is of course following the fun finger crack start. Nov 21, 2008
Jeremy Franz
Berthoud, CO
Jeremy Franz   Berthoud, CO
Just for reference, Scarface is rated 5.11a/b. Possible confirmation that this is a bit of a sandbag??? Jan 13, 2009
slim

  5.10-
slim    
  5.10-
10a seemed about right when I did it some years ago. Scarface has a steeper start, and this crack has more of a positive feel to it through the thin hands section. The thin hands section on Scarface also feels a bit steeper than the thin hands section on this one. Just my $.02. Jan 13, 2009
Eli Steiger
Gunnison, Co
  5.10
Eli Steiger   Gunnison, Co
  5.10
This route is known as Key Hole. It's a really good climb! I agree with Slim, not nearly as hard as Scarface. Mar 1, 2009
Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
Caution, heroes.
Anyone looking at this route should also know it's mostly all #0.75 & #1 Camalots. Now, if that's .10a for your hands = enjoy youself, but keep in mind that I thought Super Crack was 5.8 which for some may be OW and LB.
As I've always said: "desert cracks make you critically aware of your anatomical shortcoming and prowess". Apr 30, 2009
Carol Kotchek
Louisville, Colorado
Carol Kotchek   Louisville, Colorado
Did this route yesterday. I have small hands. Seemed like 10c to me. Trickey moves through the pods and then pretty tight hands. Possibly ring locks for bigger hands? Definitely more difficult then Generic Crack at the Creek. May 9, 2010
I got on this today, my hardest trad lead to date, and it was a great route. Went from great finger locks down low to rattly fingers to perfect ring locks to thin hands, and when I thought I could go no more I hit perfect hands to the top and ran it to the chains. Great varied climb and thank god for those pod rests.
Yellow TCU down low, old and now brown Alien prects the first pod then 1 #0.75, 2 slammed number ones, and a number two. Oct 28, 2010
Alex Vidal
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Alex Vidal   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
I led this climb initially and felt a bit frantic when I realized I would have to utilize ringlock techniques on a measly 10a. I took a lap after to realize there are solid pods and constrictions for the ringlocks, making this one seem even closer to 5.9 if you are utilizing all the opportunities for rests, good feet, and good hands. There are solid stances for placing gear as a result. I'd call it an honest 10a and representative of the grade in most trad areas. Oct 12, 2015
SummitSender
  5.10a
SummitSender  
  5.10a
If only it was longer... ( fill in joke here ).

Needs a big guy to step on the loose, little block at the start... free up a nice foot jam, haha. May 24, 2016
Keradactyl
Golden, Co
  5.10a/b
Keradactyl   Golden, Co
  5.10a/b
Any ladies looking for a good hand crack will love this route - balancy, delicate moves at the bottom through the pods, then thin hands (but secure) to hands at the top. Gear is easy to plan, since it's 0.3, 0.4 and 0.5 at the bottom in the pods, to 0.75s followed by #1s and then a #2 at the top. I love this route :) Oct 11, 2017

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