Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: [Chuck Grossman]
Page Views: 8,335 total · 53/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Jan 21, 2006
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

69 Opinions

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This is the route at the far end of the cave, immediately behind the flake. There are a lot of good rests and this is quite mild for the area.


A standard rack up to #3 Camalot will do.


Jared Spaulding
Central WY
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
A nice route with cool location. There is a fair amount of bird poo on the upper two thirds of the route. However, this does not make it a crappy route.... Nov 4, 2007
Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
Well poot, Jared. The webbing on the new anchors is now covered with bird shit. A proactive person may wish to change the acid soaked webbing with chains at some point. Apr 30, 2009
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
This one topped out. Much harder climbing higher up. Old school 5.10. Nov 2, 2009
Cape Ann
DFrench   Cape Ann
Are there supposed to be anchors at the top for this climb? Or do you just traverse right on bird-shit ledge to the anchors for the Cave Route (10a)?

I traversed right and it kind of sucked, especially for my girlfriend who was looking at a nice swing along the poopy ledge if she slipped. Great way to learn to chimney! May 29, 2010
I just went to the achor for the Cave Route, and I would say it was a cruise, but that traverse to the anchor was a little spicy, not hard, but a slip up on that dirty rock would have hurt more than a little bit.
I think it would make a great first lead. Oct 29, 2010
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
If you continue up the steep crack where it narrows to where you can chimney, there is a ledge with two sets of anchors, one in front of you (old angles) and the one behind you is a new anchor.
-Jesse Oct 29, 2010
Denver, CO
Niccole   Denver, CO
The traverse higher up to the anchors has a very loose looking flake, FYI. I did not want to pull on it. Oct 14, 2013
over here
goingUp   over here
To follow the flake all the way up maybee makes this a 5.9. It does get gritty and sandy. There are two serts of anchors, one old school in front of you and a newer set behind you. There is relatively new webbing on the left bolt, but with three sections of webbing on it and two skeptical ones (bird urine soaked) on the other side, it made me wish I had more webbing on hand and a knife, to replace and rebuild. Worth the climb to the top, however, and nice to avoid that crappy traverse. Jun 4, 2014
Matthew Windchime
Matthew Windchime   denver
The moves are fun, not too hard. The location makes it perfect for the unpredictable weather. You will be comfortable if it's blazing hot or raining, and it's a really unique setting. One of my favorite moderates, period. Jun 23, 2016
D. Scott Clark
D. Scott Clark   Boulder
Climb it all the way to the top. The top is the best part (AKA don't traverse). Oct 12, 2016
Casey Peed
  5.7 PG13
Casey Peed  
  5.7 PG13
This was an amazing route to climb! Great location and has hands and feet everywhere you need them. The traverse across the ledge is not so bad, it's pretty solid. Sep 26, 2018