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Routes in Interiors Wall Area

A Piece of Work T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bigger Than She Looks T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Briar's Birth T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Everything in Between Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Eye for an Eye T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fondon't T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Interiors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Key Hole T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Make The Grade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Not Like Any Other Desert Splitter (Left Dihedral?) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pinball Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Pony Express aka Bunny Ramp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Right of Lieback T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shaft, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Texas Finger Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown II T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown III T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Chuck Grossman & Peter Delanoy (1982) (?)
Page Views: 812 total, 17/month
Shared By: Jeff McLeod on Feb 17, 2014
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a great line a couple corners to climber's right (East) of Lieback. All I know about it other than what I know from climbing it has been gleaned from the thread for the photo that depicts the route in the Interiors Wall area section, which I will submit as a photo for this route.

You have to stand on a pile of weird, muddy stuff to start it. Begin with a thin hands/fingers section that is probably best laybacked, which felt 5.10+.

Continue into hands then fists, and turn an overhang/bulge with fists. Continue as the crack widens into #4/#5 size, and turn another overhang in an awkward offwidth section that felt harder, probably the crux of the route at 5.11 something or at least 5.10+.

Finish up the widening offwidth for 10 or 15 feet, and end by traversing left on junk/sandy edges to the bolted anchors. This section was scary and sketchy, a very cool finish to a very cool route. Watch out for loose rock on the sandy ledge above the anchor, and prepare for an extremely uncomfortable belay.

A last comment: I think one could probably take the squeeze chimney above this route to the top of the cliff, but you would need bigger gear.

Descent: this can be rapped with a single 60m rope from the anchors, make sure to tie knots! You will almost reach the ends and will have to swing a bit to climber's left to stand.

Location

Look at the photo to find this route, it is labeled NEW. This is two corners to climber's right (EAST) of the route Lieback. Look up about 100 feet, and you will see two sets of bolted anchors. The ones on the left I presume could be used for the hard-looking corner on the left, and the ones on the right are for this route. Stand on a pile of dried, muddy looking stuff to start the route.

Protection

Protection: bring everything from purple/green Camalots for the bottom up through #5 for the top, I think it would be nice to have up there although I didn't place one. Bring doubles/triples of hand/fist size for the middle.

Anchors: there are two nice looking bolts with chains in a terrible place to belay.



Photos

Anus Herder
Montrose, CO
Anus Herder   Montrose, CO
Just before the top out through the chimney roof, there's a set of anchors to the climber's left (up on the sloping ledge). These are different than the anchors at the top of the new* dihedral route. Has that new corner gone free after the rockfall? Looks really dirty still. Nov 23, 2017
Kent Pease
Littleton, Colorado
Kent Pease   Littleton, Colorado
More info:

After the rockfall, the start is now in the 11d range and is good physical climbing.

To top out, the chimney is a true squeeze and doable by those of small to medium stature - no pro needed! Going outside is not too bad and is protectable with #5 & #6 (new sizes) Camalots or =. Nov 13, 2015
Kent Pease
Littleton, Colorado
Kent Pease   Littleton, Colorado
The bolts to the left are the orphaned anchors from EIB — good to remind us of what was, but getting to them is sketchy or worse. A better option is to top out through the chimney and set up a natural anchor to bring up your second. From the rim you can walk west to the top of the Interiors Chimney then rap from a tree through the chimney (2 raps are recommended to avoid your rope getting caught). Feb 22, 2014
slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
This is a good route and is pretty representative of Escalante climbing. The finish is probably more exciting for the follower than the leader, so keep that in mind.

Too bad the variation immediately to the left fell down, as it was quite good also. Feb 18, 2014