Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||Chuck Grossman & Peter Delanoy (1982) (?)|
|Page Views:||1,697 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||Jeff McLeod on Feb 17, 2014|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Respect local residents, cattle and wildlife by following the posted speed limit of 20 mph.
Minimize user impact by staying on established trails and roads.
Park off the road in established pull-offs or parking areas.
Pack out human waste and garbage.
Keep noise to a minimum.
Portions of Escalante Canyon are active ranching areas. Keep pets under leash control at all times.
No fires and no discharge of firearms.
Camp in established areas only. No camping on private property.
You have to stand on a pile of weird, muddy stuff to start it. Begin with a thin hands/fingers section that is probably best laybacked, which felt 5.10+.
Continue into hands then fists, and turn an overhang/bulge with fists. Continue as the crack widens into #4/#5 size, and turn another overhang in an awkward offwidth section that felt harder, probably the crux of the route at 5.11 something or at least 5.10+.
Finish up the widening offwidth for 10 or 15 feet, and end by traversing left on junk/sandy edges to the bolted anchors. This section was scary and sketchy, a very cool finish to a very cool route. Watch out for loose rock on the sandy ledge above the anchor, and prepare for an extremely uncomfortable belay.
A last comment: I think one could probably take the squeeze chimney above this route to the top of the cliff, but you would need bigger gear.
Descent: this can be rapped with a single 60m rope from the anchors, make sure to tie knots! You will almost reach the ends and will have to swing a bit to climber's left to stand.
Anchors: there are two nice looking bolts with chains in a terrible place to belay.