Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||Chuck Grossman & Peter Delanoy (1982) (?)|
|Page Views:||1,183 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||Jeff McLeod on Feb 17, 2014|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
You have to stand on a pile of weird, muddy stuff to start it. Begin with a thin hands/fingers section that is probably best laybacked, which felt 5.10+.
Continue into hands then fists, and turn an overhang/bulge with fists. Continue as the crack widens into #4/#5 size, and turn another overhang in an awkward offwidth section that felt harder, probably the crux of the route at 5.11 something or at least 5.10+.
Finish up the widening offwidth for 10 or 15 feet, and end by traversing left on junk/sandy edges to the bolted anchors. This section was scary and sketchy, a very cool finish to a very cool route. Watch out for loose rock on the sandy ledge above the anchor, and prepare for an extremely uncomfortable belay.
A last comment: I think one could probably take the squeeze chimney above this route to the top of the cliff, but you would need bigger gear.
Descent: this can be rapped with a single 60m rope from the anchors, make sure to tie knots! You will almost reach the ends and will have to swing a bit to climber's left to stand.
Anchors: there are two nice looking bolts with chains in a terrible place to belay.