Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Chuck Grossman & Peter Delanoy (1982) (?)
Page Views: 1,183 total · 16/month
Shared By: Jeff McLeod on Feb 17, 2014
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great line a couple corners to climber's right (East) of Lieback. All I know about it other than what I know from climbing it has been gleaned from the thread for the photo that depicts the route in the Interiors Wall area section, which I will submit as a photo for this route.

You have to stand on a pile of weird, muddy stuff to start it. Begin with a thin hands/fingers section that is probably best laybacked, which felt 5.10+.

Continue into hands then fists, and turn an overhang/bulge with fists. Continue as the crack widens into #4/#5 size, and turn another overhang in an awkward offwidth section that felt harder, probably the crux of the route at 5.11 something or at least 5.10+.

Finish up the widening offwidth for 10 or 15 feet, and end by traversing left on junk/sandy edges to the bolted anchors. This section was scary and sketchy, a very cool finish to a very cool route. Watch out for loose rock on the sandy ledge above the anchor, and prepare for an extremely uncomfortable belay.

A last comment: I think one could probably take the squeeze chimney above this route to the top of the cliff, but you would need bigger gear.

Descent: this can be rapped with a single 60m rope from the anchors, make sure to tie knots! You will almost reach the ends and will have to swing a bit to climber's left to stand.

Location

Look at the photo to find this route, it is labeled NEW. This is two corners to climber's right (EAST) of the route Lieback. Look up about 100 feet, and you will see two sets of bolted anchors. The ones on the left I presume could be used for the hard-looking corner on the left, and the ones on the right are for this route. Stand on a pile of dried, muddy looking stuff to start the route.

Protection

Protection: bring everything from purple/green Camalots for the bottom up through #5 for the top, I think it would be nice to have up there although I didn't place one. Bring doubles/triples of hand/fist size for the middle.

Anchors: there are two nice looking bolts with chains in a terrible place to belay.

Photos