The Great Escape 

There are now two fixed chains on this route, on the last two bolts. I discovered the one fixed chain, and decided to fix a second one to alleviate a problem with getting off of this route. By clipping the anchors at the top of the climb, it causes some terrible rope friction if you want to clean your draws, and is tough on the rope. Now, if you are so inclined, you can pull the roof, go up and touch the anchors, then jump. You will take one of the greatest swings around, and have two fixed chain draws to catch you. This also makes cleaning the draws much easier. Just a thought to add a little more adventure to the redpoint of this one!

A total blast.

I noticed that some of the holds on the steepest part of roof were flakes. To be honest, I was a bit nervous pulling on them. Do you think they are safe?

I've done this route several times without any problems. And I've seen bigger and heavier climbers pulling on this flake without incident. This route has probably seen hundreds of ascents.

Of course, there are no guarantees. At least it is very steep and if you reef the flake off, it won't hit anyone (except maybe the climber).

Cleaning choss, loose flakes, and other dangerous stuff off a route can't be considered "manufacturing", even if you have to clean it with a prybar. It is completely different from drilling a pocket, because pocket-drilling is done strictly to facilitate climbing, whereas prying crap off a route is simply safe and responsible.

Incidentally, I think this route is one of the best routes in the canyon - great job!

[The first bolt on the roof, before the lip, looks crappy, too. It looks like the hanger is about to pull right off the bolt. This could be the result of repeated king swings from cleaning this route. If someone know how to do this I will donate the bolt. I think replacing it with a 3/8 inch Metolius bolt is the way to go.]

I have climbed on the route a few months ago and the bolt seemed to be pulled out a decent amount. Does anyone know it still is that way or if it has been fixed. If not, and it know one minds, I would be willing to replace it with a 3/8" SS double expansion fixe on my next trip to that wall. Let me know what you think.

Ed Rhine

[The bolt is still in bad condition as of yesterday. If you replace the bolt make sure you leave the chain behind. Good luck, and thank you for helping to keep climbs safe.]

Thanks for posting those pics Mike. I'm sitting in a restaraunt in Barcelona and was thinking about the last project Micah and I worked before I left. Thanks for the cool surprise. Oh yea, I also want to say thanks a pant load for spelling my name wrong. Cheers! Wyatt

I was working this route last week and left some draws on it. Someone took the bottom three I had hanging, just wanted to give a heads up. Other than that really fun route.

I would say the most exciting route on WOJ. skipped the 4th (or 5th?) clip (wherever the crux is). A bit scary, but I did fall on it once, and it's a clean fall. The ending is one of the easier ones as far as mantles go; plenty of holds, just keep it together.

Super fun climb. The crux for me was getting into the underclings. I found a good crimp up and left of the last bolt that made pulling the lip easy.

The 2nd to last bolt before the anchors (fixed chains) is still in bad shape, but the proximity to the previous and next bolt should keep things safe when it comes out. You may get pelted in the face with a chain though...the bolt just after the undercling crux has a loose nut that should be checked and tightened before weighting.

This is a fun route with bouldery moves. The right skills will allow you to skip some of the holds and make your static, climbing friends piss and moan. I'm guessing the frequent forum downraters do not have these skills. Either way it seems fair at 12c.

I have added a third fixed chain under the roof. This should provide some additional protection if cleaning the route from only the fixed chains, since the bolt under the roof (now middle chain) seems a bit suspect. I do not have the knowledge to replace a bolt without really messing up the rock, but this bolt may well qualify for some help.

What a great route. Those roof jugs felt great. Fell pulling the lip on both my 2nd and 3rd burns. Those last few sloping crimps don't feel so good with a pump. Can't wait to get back and tick this one. Classic, for sure!

Some updates...

Bolt replacement Great Escape 7/29/09 Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Jul 29, 2009

• replaced the bolt at the second chain, along with a new biner.

• tightened the quicklink on the first chain, wasnt even closed.

• replaced lower-off biners with some freshies.

What a sweet route! The exposure is great for such a short route! Great climbing throughout, and the name is perfect for the finish. I would recommend the victory whip as well.

Apparently I used a sort of "cheat," pulling off a horn out left instead off both underclings, though how one is supposed to know that the horn is off is beyond me. I think moving off both underclings would up the difficulty by a letter grade, though...but I've yet to try it. Next time I'm there.

That said, it's a lot of fun. Once you pull the crux, then there are some HUGE jugs on the roof to a sort of burly lip. Great movement, tons of fun, get on it!!!

Hey Chipacles, I use the undercling horn out left as well. I think people just say that's cheating because they went with the terrible option of using those horrible underclings! Either way, it's a great bit of climbing, but I would say let's leave the 'cheater holds' to the gym....

Agreed- to not use the horn out left (if you can reach it) seems silly...using it makes it a 4-star 12b while forcing yourself to not use it makes it contrived 12c- whatever floats yer boat.

Today I replaced the 2 old biners at the anchor as well as donated a draw to the hanger two below the undercling section. Get after it.

A really good route. Climbs steeper than it looks with a feeling of exposure from being above the river. Super fun jug hauling which felt pretty powerful especially through the last 2 bolts in the ceiling. Gets shade most of the day with the exception of the very top which can make pulling the lip on slimey holds more challenging and fun. If you feel the grade is soft(as with all mp downgraders), I recommend campusing the final 2 jug sections in the ceiling or climbing with a watermelon strapped to ur harness......

Oh yeah I forgot, you should never clip the chains and jump once ur established over the lip. It's way better on your rope than lowering and is great fun!

So Much Fun.
If the left pointing horn before the crux reach is indeed on, calling this route 12c would be a bit of an ego stroke. Slammer felt much more difficult and spot on for the grade.
Do not let the grade deter you from trying this climb - a solid 5.11 climber can easily do all the movements, but stringing them all together would be the challenge.

I'll be sure to send an urgent memo to the permadraw fairy....

Since when has the "cheater" horn vs. the double underclings on this route ever been the crux? Anyone that's ever done this route knows that the crux is pulling the mantle at the top when you're pumped.