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Split Beaver

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Split Beaver  


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Location: 49.7061, -123.1382 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,025
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 23, 2007
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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

While not endowed with a large number of climbs, this crag has several good, vertical to overhanging cracks. This is a nice feature considering that the vast majority of Smoke Bluffs climbs aren't overhanging.

The classic "Split Beaver" (5.10b) is the main draw but don't miss the two 5.9s.

Getting There 

Split Beaver is above the left side of Penny Lane. It's reached by going up the stairs near Pixie Corner and taking a side trail to the right at the top of the stairs. After a few hundred feet a small trail will break of to the left at which point the crag ought to be visible. If you missed the left, you'll know you've gone too far if you end up at Ronin's Corner.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.3 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Split Beaver:
Salal Jam   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   
Asleep At The Wheel   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Orifice Fish   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Split Beaver   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Split Beaver

Featured Route For Split Beaver
Not too many people can finish Split Beaver on fist jams alone.  Photo of Mike Hengeveld by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

Split Beaver 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  North America : Canada : ... : Split Beaver
Pull over an initial bulge and start jamming up a gently but continuously overhanging and continuously widening crack. As it widens the usual difficulties transitioning from hands to fists are encountered, but it's when the fists get rattly that you earn it.Apparently it can be done with fists only if you have very big hands. I needed two fist and palm stacks to finish it.Once you're through the widest part there's a ledge with an anchor, or you can continue up another 20 ft of easier climbing...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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