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 ADVANCED
Ronin's Corner
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Daydream Believer T 
Desperado T 
Dreams of Passion S 
Magical Child T 
MCM T 
Ridge Runner T,S 
Sammy's Frog S 
Sky Dancing S 
Wobbler T 

Sky Dancing 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: D. Jones, T. Ryan, C. Ryan, 1992
Page Views: 227
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Jan 21, 2007

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The arete just right of Dreams of Passion. This isn't as hard as Dreams, but still requires tough friction moves between bolts spaced enough to keep it exciting.

Protection 

The first bolt is pretty high. It used to be possible to pre-clip it by standing on a stump, but the stump is now gone. The first moves, especially if you take the slab on the left, could well be the crux, and the base drops off right below the bolt so you risk a fifteen foot fall after only climbing ten feet. All this suggests that stick-clipping is a very good idea, but you may be able to climb MCM to the height of the bolt and traverse over to it.

Take a few nuts or small cams for the crack between the two slab sections. There's a two-bolt anchor at the top of Dreams of Passion that works for this climb.


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