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The arete just right of Dreams of Passion. This isn't as hard as Dreams, but still requires tough friction moves between bolts spaced enough to keep it exciting.
The first bolt is pretty high. It used to be possible to pre-clip it by standing on a stump, but the stump is now gone. The first moves, especially if you take the slab on the left, could well be the crux, and the base drops off right below the bolt so you risk a fifteen foot fall after only climbing ten feet. All this suggests that stick-clipping is a very good idea, but you may be able to climb MCM to the height of the bolt and traverse over to it.
Take a few nuts or small cams for the crack between the two slab sections. There's a two-bolt anchor at the top of Dreams of Passion that works for this climb.
Nov 20, 2014
The original start works up edges just right of the arete and steps back left just below the first bolt. It's super exposed but significantly easier than trying to climb up left of the arete to the bolt.