Thanks to the efforts of Lucho Rivera this Dan McDevitt route, formerly Romulan Warbird, now goes free. This route is very sustained and difficult. Each of the first six pitches is burly in a different way.
This is a newer route, freed in 2012, so it is still there is still a little foliage and some loose or hollow rock on a few pitches. This does not really detract from the climbing since this route follows an incredibly steep line with amazing belay ledges after every pitch.
P1 - 5.12a/b - 35m Climb a short dihedral and then make a hard move left to a good stance below the main corner. Work up the corner passing another crux section with thin pro. When the crack pinches out stem and do some ninja moves to get to a crack out left. Follow this crack as it arches to the right to the belay.
P2 - 5.11d - 30m Layback up from the belay until you can step right to a parallel crack/corner. Follow this briefly before stepping back left into the main corner. Follow sweet knobs until the corner pinches back out. Employ some trickery to get through a short boulder problem to another good stance. The crack pinches out but the geometry creates a perfect edge for laybacking. Romp up to your hearts content stepping right around a large block. Keep laybacking until you can mantel up onto the spacious belay ledge.
P3 - 5.11c - 35m Follow the obvious wide cracks up and to the right. A few tricky layback moves get you past the first of many hollow flakes. Step back left into the corner with difficulty and layback up past another scary section of blocks. It is possible to get good gear out left. The next section presents two options. You can go straight up the corner (more difficult) or quest out right (more exciting) and then hand traverse back across. The fear factor goes down but the pump clock goes up as the angle kicks back on the last 20 feet to the belay. Traverse way to the left with heel hooks and a good amount of air under your feet.
P4 - 5.12b - 35m Place some high gear and make a cruxy move right to clip a bolt. Use your granite voodoo and houdini up to the finger crack. Power up the short crack to a good rest in an alcove. Regain your composure and punch it up a long flared section of fingers and thin hands. A kneebar can keep the pump at bay before you move past a couple of large chockstones into a flare. Thrutch up and pull one more tricky section when you exit the flare. A few easy moves leads to a big tired ledge with a mess of bolts. I belayed on the right bolts and used the bolts on the left when we rappelled.
P5 - 5.11c - 25m Traverse about 10 feet right from the belay and clip a high bolt. Climb down around the corner and then mantel a dirty ledge and reach back around the corner to clip a second bolt. (It is also possible to face climb past these two bolts and then flip around the corner). Eventually you will chimney and stem up inside the corner with difficulty until your fingers fit in the steep crack. Pull back around the corner to hand crack which leads to a good stance. Step left and climb up a short dihedral. Fun moves lead to another awesome belay ledge on the left. A short but surprisingly challenging pitch.
P6 - 5.12c - 25m The Crux! Move down and left from the belay being careful with some fragile rock. A few thin moves get you established below a tips crack in a corner. Crimp and finger lock up the crack keeping your core tight . A few good holds give a momentary reprieve before a final tricky move exiting the crack. Recover as best you can and attack an exciting face climbing sequence on holds that all face the wrong ways. Clip a fixed pin (likely with a long fixed sling) and hand traverse across to the belay.
We rapped from here. A 70m rope gets you down. From what I understand the remaining pitches are still high quality just easier in grade. If you have an 80m rope or two ropes you can skip the P5 belay on the way down.
P7 - 11a Follow flakes up wild looking rock directly above the belay.
P8 - 10d
P9 - 10d
I plan on going back and will update the description later on.
This route starts from a nice flat area on the traverse ledge across Fifi Buttress. The Vortex is on the right and Final Frontier is further along the ledge. Scramble 30 feet up to a flat boulder below the first corner.
All belays are bolted and setup for rappel.
Double Rack from 0 C3 to #1 camalot. Single 00 C3, and #2, #3 and #4 camalot. A #4 friend also works instead of a #4 camalot.
A third set of finger sized pieces, especially thin fingers are useful!
|By Christopher Barlow|
Jun 2, 2014
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Wow, this is an awesome route: steep, featured, nice ledges, and pretty clean, difficult climbing. I'd put this route up there with some of the very best moderate length free climbs in the Valley. We also only went to the top of p6.
A few thoughts to add to the above description:
I thought the crux p6 was hard compared to the lower 5.12 pitches and other similarly rated stuff in the Valley. I have fat fingers and tried it in the sun, but if you told me it was 13-, I wouldn't raise an eyebrow. Also, the face climbing at the top of this pitch (to get to the fixed pin) seemed really serious to me. I may have missed something, but I ended up climbing 15+ feet of solid 5.10+ above very marginal gear in hollow flakes. I thought it was quite dangerous and out of character with the rest of the climbing.
The recommended rack was perfect except I wanted three of the green C3/purple Metolius size, but only for p6. I also found offset RPs very useful on several pitches, especially the first. A red TCU could be useful for p1.
The loose rock on p3 demands attention and care, but it is manageable. The climbing is really good; the blocks just might fall down some day.
|By Hayden Kennedy|
Jun 8, 2014
One of the BEST 5.12 routes in the Valley!!