Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 13 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Dan McDevitt, Casey Jones
Page Views: 14,160 total · 151/month
Shared By: Jake Ramsey on Jun 14, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

A quality (and soft for the grade) line on the far left side of Fifi Buttress.

P1: Starting on the dirty sloping platform, climb weird moves past a bolt and into stemming with a cryptic crux sequence to the tree. Continue up to the bolted anchor. in the corner. 5.10d

P2: Go up the hand crack, and around the flake on jugs. Climb past 3 bolts up to a comfy belay on a ledge, this can be linked with pitch 1 if you have the gear. 5.10a

P3: Go up the hand crack before transferring to a slippery layback  before climbing up to a dirty stance in a short chimney. 5.10a/b

P4: Up the chimney and then a few strenuous moves over the roof, highly recommend protecting this move before turning over. Continue to Voyager ledge. WARNING: Voyager ledge has lots of loose rocks and debris, take care not to knock anything down onto your partner or other parties. Link with P3 to avoid this awkward belay.

P5: Up the broken crack to some strenuous moves to get established in the corner. Climb thin hands through fingers and then back to hands/fists. Traverse left to a layback past a bolt. 5.11a

P6: Look up and left to spot the bolts on the slab face. Climb past these bolts on really deep and sharp layback holds. Continue up the hand crack past a small roof to the anchor. This pitch is rated 5.10d but is extremely soft, more like 5.10a.

P7: The gem of the route. Go up the right crack, use some power to transfer left going up more hands. Quickly these hands taper down to thin hands and ringlocks for the crux section of the route. Once they taper back to fingers the crux is over. Look for feet on the right side of the crack to find your rest stances. Do some sporty moves left past some bolts and then up easy climbing to the anchor on the ledge. 5.11a

Rappel the route with a 70m rope.

I did not climb the rest of the route which has another 5 pitches as they looked loose and dirty. Hopefully someone else can add in this information.

Getting There Suggest change

Take the standard Fifi Buttress approach from the Bridalvail Falls parking lot. When you reach the end of the stream bed a the base of the buttress, skirt the base to the climbers left around the corner. As of September 2023 there is a fixed rope to descend a steeper section of this traverse. Continue around the base until you reach another, dirty gully. Look up and you'll see the P1 stemming corner start with a bolt about 10' off the ground.

Be aware - Rock fall at top of Pitch 3/base of 4 Suggest change

Route is slightly altered and still some loose rock. Take heed and see here.

Photos

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